Percorrer por autor "Oliveira, Maria Beatriz P. P."
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- The benefits of using exosomes in professional cosmetic products: from theory to practicePublication . Costa, Gabrielle; Silva, Elisa; Silva, Fátima; Casas, Ana; Bastos, Bernardo; Oliveira, Maria Beatriz P. P.; Nóbrega, Clévio; Almeida, HugoThe integration of exosomes into professional cosmetics marks a significant paradigm shift from traditional passive formulations to advanced regenerative esthetics. Rather than being defined solely by their nanometric dimensions or classical association with endosomal biogenesis, these vesicles function as highly targeted intercellular messengers capable of delivering complex bioactive payloads to modulate tissue repair and collagen synthesis. While robust preclinical and clinical trials validate their remarkable potential in skin rejuvenation, hair restoration, and hyperpigmentation management, significant translational barriers remain. A critical analysis of the current literature reveals that successful clinical outcomes frequently rely on physical penetration enhancers, such as microneedling or fractional lasers, making it challenging to isolate the autonomous efficacy of topical vesicles from the trauma-induced regenerative response. Furthermore, commercial viability is dictated by stringent regulatory frameworks. In the European Union, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 strictly prohibits human-derived biologicals, while the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) aggressively monitors the unsubstantiated marketing of cellular therapies. To navigate these biosafety and legal constraints, the aesthetic industry is increasingly pivoting toward non-human and legally compliant alternatives. Consequently, Plant-Derived Extracellular Vesicles (PDEVs), microbiome-derived exosomes (such as those obtained from bacterial fermentation), and bioengineered synthetic analogues have become the focal point of market innovation. A practical evaluation of the MCCM Medical Cosmetics portfolio illustrates this strategic shift, demonstrating the clinical versatility of botanical sources. To secure the long-term credibility of exosome technology, the industry must overcome current manufacturing heterogeneity by aligning with international standardization frameworks, such as the MISEV2023 guidelines, thereby ensuring reliable delivery systems, batch-to-batch consistency, and uncompromised consumer safety. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the biological mechanisms, clinical efficacy, and translational challenges associated with exosome-based cosmetics.
