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- The influence of coastal processes on inner shelf sediment distribution: The Eastern Algarve Shelf (Southern Portugal)Publication . Rosa, F.; Rufino, M. M.; Ferreira, O.; Matias, Ana; Brito, Ana C.; Gaspar, MiguelThis study examines sediment distribution patterns in the Southeastern Algarve inner shelf (southern Portugal), an area characterized by marked variations in its coastal environment and low continental supply of sediments. The specific goals of this study were to identify the principal sediment sources and the factors influencing sediment transport paths and deposition. A total of 199 samples, collected along the shelf from the Guadiana River mouth to Olhos de Agua, were analyzed. Grain-size distribution and parameters were measured for all the samples. Terrigenous and biogenic components of sand were identified in 38 samples, and results analyzed using multivariate non-linear multidimension scaling (MDS) and cluster analysis. Patterns of sediment distribution in this area of the inner shelf vary according to water depth and exhibit significant longshore variation, related mainly to coastal processes (littoral drift and storm currents) and to a lower degree to sediment sources. Sand is dominant at all depths, reflecting the influence of littoral drift in the supply and redistribution of shelf sediments. Fine and gravel-sized deposits are significant in specific areas and are usually associated with changes in sediment composition. Five sectors have been identified according to sedimentary dynamics. The results, based on geostatistical and multivariate analysis, have allowed detailed sediment distribution maps to be generated, which represent an update of the existing cartography and serve as a tool for the management of coastal and marine resources. They have been furthermore compared with inner shelf sediment dynamics in other regions worldwide, to distinguish between specific regional responses to forcing mechanisms and processes that are more generalized within this type of shelf environments. In this context, the results obtained results in the Algarve study area are of great interest for the understanding of sediment dynamics of sand dominated inner shelves with reduced continental supply.
- Overwash hazard assessmentPublication . Rodrigues, B. A.; Matias, Ana; Ferreira, O.Overwash is a natural storm-related process that occurs when wave runup overcomes the dune crest. Because coastlines are globally occupied, overwash is a hazardous process and there is a need to identify vulnerable areas. This study proposes a method to detect overwash-prone areas in the Ancao peninsula, Portugal, and eventually outlines a vulnerability map. Dune base (D-LOW) and crest (D-HIGH) topography were surveyed. Three different storm scenarios (5-, 10- and 25- year return period storms) and associated waves and sea level were determined. According to these data, extreme wave runup (R-HIGH) was calculated by a parameterisation set for intermediate-reflective beaches. The maps for collision and overwash regimes were designed by comparing R-HIGH values with D-LOW and D-HIGH. Almost the entire dune base along the peninsula is vulnerable to collision regime. The overwash process was identified mainly along the tidal inlet hazard area and within the human-occupied portion of the beach, where overwash is expected to occur within 5 years of return period. The developed method considers the main overwash driving forces and proved to identify hazardous areas previously observed in the area. Occasional differences between modelled and observed overwash areas can be attributable to equipment errors, morphology interpretation subjectivity and maladjustments in runup parameterisation. Nevertheless, the method proved to be effective in reproducing the overall Ancao peninsula vulnerability and can be widely applied. Therefore, it is a simple and potentially important tool for coastal management that enables mitigation strategies for occupied coasts and assessment of geological and ecological consequences in natural areas.