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- On hair care physicochemistry: From structure and degradation to novel biobased conditioning agentsPublication . Fernandes, Catarina; Medronho, B.; Alves, Luís; Rasteiro, Maria GraçaHair is constantly exposed to various adverse external stimuli, such as mechanical or thermal factors, that may cause damage or cause it to lose its shine and smooth appearance. These undesirable effects can be minimized by using hair conditioners, which repair the hair and restore the smooth effect desired by the consumer. Some of the currently used conditioning agents present low biodegradability and high toxicity to aquatic organisms. Consumers are also becoming more aware of environmental issues and shifting their preferences toward natural-based products. Therefore, developing novel, sustainable, natural-based derivatives that can act as conditioning agents in hair care products and thus compete with the traditional systems obtained from non-renewable sources is highly appealing. This paper presents the key physicochemical aspects of the hair conditioning process, including hair structure and degradation, and reviews some of the new alternative conditioning agents obtained from natural resources.
- Lignin extraction from acacia wood: crafting deep eutectic solvents with a systematic D-optimal mixture-process experimental designPublication . Fernandes, Catarina; Aliaño González, María José; Gomes, Leandro Cid; Bernin, Diana; Gaspar, Rita; Fardim, Pedro; Reis, Marco S.; Alves, Luís; Medronho, Bruno; Rasteiro, Maria Graça; Varela, CarlaLignin is a complex biopolymer whose efficient extraction from biomass is crucial for various applications. Deep eutectic solvents (DES), particularly natural-origin DES (NADES), have emerged as promising systems for lignin fractionation and separation from other biomass components. While ternary DES offer enhanced fractionation performance, the role of each component in these mixtures remains unclear. In this study, the effects of adding tartaric acid (Tart) or citric acid (Cit) to a common binary DES mixture composed of lactic acid (Lact) and choline chloride (ChCl) were investigated for lignin extraction from acacia wood. Ternary Cit-based DES showed superior performance compared to Tart-based DES. Using a combined mixture-process D-Optimal experimental design, the Lact:Cit:ChCl DES composition and extraction temperature were optimized targeting maximum lignin yield and purity. The optimal conditions (i.e., Lact:Cit:ChCl, 0.6:0.3:0.1 molar ratio, 140 degrees C) resulted in a lignin extraction yield of 99.63 +/- 1.24 % and a lignin purity of 91.45 +/- 1.03 %. Furthermore, this DES exhibited feasible recyclability and reusability without sacrificing efficiency.