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  • Sediment transport measurements with tracers in very low-energy beaches
    Publication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, P.; Bertin, X.; Dias, J. A.
    This study investigates sediment transport at a very low-energy backbarrier beach in southern Portugal, from a spring-to-neap tide period, during fair-weather conditions. Rates and directions of transport were determined based on the application of fluorescent tracer techniques. Wind and currents were collected locally, whereas the dominant small and short-period wind waves were characterized using a morphodynamic modelling system coupling a circulation model, a spectral wave model, and a bottom evolution model, well validated over the study area. For the recorded conditions sediment transport was small and ebb oriented, with daily transport rates below 0.02 m3 day-1. Tidal currents (mainly ebb velocities) were found to be the main causative forcing controlling sediment displacements. Transport rates were higher during spring tides, tending towards very small values at neap tides. Results herein reported points towards the distinction between tracer advection and tracer dispersion in this type of environment. Transport by advection was low as a consequence of the prevailing hydrodynamic conditions (Hs < 0.1 m, and max. current velocity of 0.5 m s-1) and the tracer adjustment to the transport layer, whereas dispersion was relatively high (few metres per day). Tracer techniques allowed distinguishing the broad picture of transport, but revealed the need for refinement in this type of environments (bi-directional forcing by ebb and flood cycles).
  • Short-term sediment transport at a backbarrier beach
    Publication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Pacheco, André; Freire, Paula
    This article defines short-term (tidal cycle) sediment-transport patterns at a backbarrier beach based on detailed field studies. Fieldwork was planned to record nonstorm, spring tide conditions that enable the definition of background sediment dynamics at the study area. The experiment was set at two beach morphologies: beach face and sandbank. Current meters were deployed at both sites. Fluorescent tracer techniques were applied to determine rates and direction of transport. Topographic surveys and sediment sampling were undertaken. During the experiment, limited tracer displacement and small morphological changes occurred. The low magnitude changes are representative of predominant, low-energy hydrodynamic conditions. Sediment transport was primarily longshore orientated and dependent on the velocity of tidal currents. Tidal currents had the potential for sediment transport only during a short period of the tidal cycle and had higher velocities during ebb, which results in a net sediment transport orientated towards the nearby inlet. It is suggested that there is dependence on sediment transport rate at the study site and on the variability of tidal currents, which are greatly influenced by the distance to, and conditions of, the nearby Ancão Inlet.