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- Backbarrier evolution at a medium-term scalePublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, Paula; Dias, J. A.This study reports the medium-term evolution of a sandy backbarrier and its relation with prevailing wind conditions. Obtained results demonstrated that Ancão backbarrier does not behave as a scale-down version of higher energy fetch-limited or oceanic beaches, being considered as a low-energy beach with extremely low wind-induced wave conditions. Volumetric changes during the three years monitoring were small, and the analysis of low-scale changes was divided into four beach compartment: upper beach, beach face, tidal flat, sand bank. There was no significant correlation between prevailing wind conditions, volume and grain-size variation, neither a marked seasonal pattern. Some wind-induced beach changes were perceptive in the grain size variations, related mostly to aeolian offshore sediment transport. Morphological changes were similar in the upper part of the profile, including upper beach and beach face, with changes mostly related to wind and windwaves energy. The lower part of the profile, which includes the tidal flat and the sand bank, frequently react independently from the upper part of the profile, although, sediment exchange between them was noticed during extreme conditions. The lower part of the profile had larger volumetric variability, without any evident wind dominance. The studied beach revealed high morphologic resilience, yet the overall quantities of sediment transported between 2005 and 2008 has particular relevance in the local coastal management context. Further research is needed to develop a broad-scale model of fetch-limited beaches, including the less energetic settings of the spectra such as backbarrier environments.
- Natural and human-induced coastal dynamics at a back-barrier beachPublication . Carrasco, A. Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, PaulaThis study contributes to the understanding of very low-energy fetch-limited environments by reporting the evolution of a back-barrier beach (Ancão Peninsula, southern Portugal). It considers two timescales: a large-scale evolution for the past 60 years based on aerial photograph analysis, and a small-scale beach evolution based on monthly topographic surveys performed during three years of monitoring. Each timescale revealed a different rate of evolution, the first reporting a modified beach response-type (from human activities), and the second reporting a natural beach response-type. Human activities caused significant changes in the back-barrier shore, whereas changes under natural forcing were much smaller, were less influential on the area's evolution, and were not sufficient to counteract or mask the consequences of human activities. The findings of the study should contribute to a better understanding about the large- and small- scale changes in other back-barriers characterised by similar very low-energy conditions.
- Short-term sediment transport at a backbarrier beachPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Pacheco, André; Freire, PaulaThis article defines short-term (tidal cycle) sediment-transport patterns at a backbarrier beach based on detailed field studies. Fieldwork was planned to record nonstorm, spring tide conditions that enable the definition of background sediment dynamics at the study area. The experiment was set at two beach morphologies: beach face and sandbank. Current meters were deployed at both sites. Fluorescent tracer techniques were applied to determine rates and direction of transport. Topographic surveys and sediment sampling were undertaken. During the experiment, limited tracer displacement and small morphological changes occurred. The low magnitude changes are representative of predominant, low-energy hydrodynamic conditions. Sediment transport was primarily longshore orientated and dependent on the velocity of tidal currents. Tidal currents had the potential for sediment transport only during a short period of the tidal cycle and had higher velocities during ebb, which results in a net sediment transport orientated towards the nearby inlet. It is suggested that there is dependence on sediment transport rate at the study site and on the variability of tidal currents, which are greatly influenced by the distance to, and conditions of, the nearby Ancão Inlet.