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- The influence of coastal processes on inner shelf sediment distribution: The Eastern Algarve Shelf (Southern Portugal)Publication . Rosa, F.; Rufino, M. M.; Ferreira, O.; Matias, Ana; Brito, Ana C.; Gaspar, MiguelThis study examines sediment distribution patterns in the Southeastern Algarve inner shelf (southern Portugal), an area characterized by marked variations in its coastal environment and low continental supply of sediments. The specific goals of this study were to identify the principal sediment sources and the factors influencing sediment transport paths and deposition. A total of 199 samples, collected along the shelf from the Guadiana River mouth to Olhos de Agua, were analyzed. Grain-size distribution and parameters were measured for all the samples. Terrigenous and biogenic components of sand were identified in 38 samples, and results analyzed using multivariate non-linear multidimension scaling (MDS) and cluster analysis. Patterns of sediment distribution in this area of the inner shelf vary according to water depth and exhibit significant longshore variation, related mainly to coastal processes (littoral drift and storm currents) and to a lower degree to sediment sources. Sand is dominant at all depths, reflecting the influence of littoral drift in the supply and redistribution of shelf sediments. Fine and gravel-sized deposits are significant in specific areas and are usually associated with changes in sediment composition. Five sectors have been identified according to sedimentary dynamics. The results, based on geostatistical and multivariate analysis, have allowed detailed sediment distribution maps to be generated, which represent an update of the existing cartography and serve as a tool for the management of coastal and marine resources. They have been furthermore compared with inner shelf sediment dynamics in other regions worldwide, to distinguish between specific regional responses to forcing mechanisms and processes that are more generalized within this type of shelf environments. In this context, the results obtained results in the Algarve study area are of great interest for the understanding of sediment dynamics of sand dominated inner shelves with reduced continental supply.
- An evolutionary categorisation model for backbarrier environmentsPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Oscar; Davidson, M.; Matias, Ana; Dias, J. A.Shorelines occurring along restricted fetch environments, such as the backsides of barrier islands, are extremely diverse with respect to their morphologic characteristics and evolution. In order to better understand the morphodynamic evolution of backbarriers and the associated implications for entire barrier systems, this study proposes a backbarrier evolutionary categorisation model based on the development of two types of index: backbarrier evolution tendency and backbarrier maturation condition. The proposed characterisation system is applied to the Ria Formosa backbarrier (located in southern Portugal) for the period 1947 to 2001. Cross-shore and longshore backbarrier trends in Ria Formosa suggest a shrinking of the lagoon system as a consequence of a decrease in the coastal length of the backbarrier coastline and a landward displacement of it. Even though some of the backbarriers examined were found to be in an immature state, the results obtained illustrate a maturing trend for the system overall. Barriers in Ria Formosa fall into two main evolutionary categories: backbarrier reduction and backbarrier growth. This means that neither smoothing nor branching has been significant and therefore that backbarrier recent evolution is closely related to barrier coast length. Application of the proposed characterisation to the Ria Formosa case study has helped reveal backbarrier evolutionary trends and therefore should be of use in the management of backbarrier systems.
- Natural and human-induced coastal dynamics at a back-barrier beachPublication . Carrasco, A. Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, PaulaThis study contributes to the understanding of very low-energy fetch-limited environments by reporting the evolution of a back-barrier beach (Ancão Peninsula, southern Portugal). It considers two timescales: a large-scale evolution for the past 60 years based on aerial photograph analysis, and a small-scale beach evolution based on monthly topographic surveys performed during three years of monitoring. Each timescale revealed a different rate of evolution, the first reporting a modified beach response-type (from human activities), and the second reporting a natural beach response-type. Human activities caused significant changes in the back-barrier shore, whereas changes under natural forcing were much smaller, were less influential on the area's evolution, and were not sufficient to counteract or mask the consequences of human activities. The findings of the study should contribute to a better understanding about the large- and small- scale changes in other back-barriers characterised by similar very low-energy conditions.