Untitled

Funder

Organizational Unit

Publications

On hair care physicochemistry: From structure and degradation to novel biobased conditioning agents

Publication . Fernandes, Catarina; Medronho, B.; Alves, Luís; Rasteiro, Maria Graça

Hair is constantly exposed to various adverse external stimuli, such as mechanical or thermal factors, that may cause damage or cause it to lose its shine and smooth appearance. These undesirable effects can be minimized by using hair conditioners, which repair the hair and restore the smooth effect desired by the consumer. Some of the currently used conditioning agents present low biodegradability and high toxicity to aquatic organisms. Consumers are also becoming more aware of environmental issues and shifting their preferences toward natural-based products. Therefore, developing novel, sustainable, natural-based derivatives that can act as conditioning agents in hair care products and thus compete with the traditional systems obtained from non-renewable sources is highly appealing. This paper presents the key physicochemical aspects of the hair conditioning process, including hair structure and degradation, and reviews some of the new alternative conditioning agents obtained from natural resources.

2023-01-24Journal article

Open Access

Lignin enhances cellulose dissolution in cold alkali

Publication . Costa, Carolina; Medronho, Bruno; Eivazi, Alireza; Svanedal, Ida; Lindman, Björn; Edlund, Håkan; Norgren, Magnus

Aqueous sodium hydroxide solutions are extensively used as solvents for lignin in kraft pulping. These are also appealing systems for cellulose dissolution due to their inexpensiveness, ease to recycle and low toxicity. Cellulose dissolution occurs in a narrow concentration region and at low temperatures. Dissolution is often incomplete but additives, such as zinc oxide or urea, have been found to significantly improve cellulose dissolution. In this work, lignin was explored as a possible beneficial additive for cellulose dissolution. Lignin was found to improve cellulose dissolution in cold alkali, extending the NaOH concentration range to lower values. The regenerated cellulose material from the NaOH-lignin solvents was found to have a lower crystallinity and crystallite size than the samples prepared in the neat NaOH and NaOH-urea solvents. Beneficial lignin-cellulose interactions in solution state appear to be preserved under coagulation and regeneration, reducing the tendency of crystallization of cellulose.

2021-11Journal article

Open Access

Acacia wood fractionation using deep eutectic solvents: extraction, recovery, and characterization of the different fractions

Publication . Magalhães, Solange; Moreira, Adriana; Almeida, Ricardo; Cruz, Pedro Fernandes; Alves, Luís; Costa, Carolina; Mendes, Cátia; Medronho, Bruno; Romano, Anabela; Carvalho, Maria da Graça; Gamelas, José A. F.; Rasteiro, Maria da Graça

The selective extraction and recovery of different lignocellulosic molecules of interest from forestry residues is increasing every day not only to satisfy the needs of driving a society toward more sustainable approaches and materials (rethinking waste as a valuable resource) but also because lignocellulosic molecules have several applications. For this purpose, the development of new sustainable and ecologically benign extraction approaches has grown significantly. Deep eutectic solvents (DESs) appear as a promising alternative for the processing and manipulation of biomass. In the present study, a DES formed using choline chloride and levulinic acid (ChCl:LA) was studied to fractionate lignocellulosic residues of acacia wood (Acacia dealbata Link), an invasive species in Portugal. Different parameters, such as temperature and extraction time, were optimized to enhance the yield and purity of recovered cellulose and lignin fractions. DESs containing LA were found to be promising solvent systems, as the hydrogen bond donor was considered relevant in relation to lignin extraction and cellulose concentration. On the other hand, the increase in temperature and extraction time increases the amount of extracted material from biomass but affects the purity of lignin. The most promising DES system, ChCELA in a ratio of 1:3, was found to not significantly depolymerize the extracted lignin, which presented a similar molecular weight to a la-aft lignin. Additionally, the P-31 NMR results revealed that the extracted lignin has a high content of phenolic OH groups, which favor its reactivity. A mixture of ChCl:LA may be considered a fully renewable solvent, and the formed DES presents good potential to fractionate wood residues.

2022Journal article

Open Access

On the valorization of Arbutus unedo L. Pomace: Polyphenol extraction and development of novel functional cookies

Publication . Duarte, Hugo; Carrera, Ceferino; Aliaño-González, M.J.; Gutiérrez-Escobar, Rocío; Jiménez-Hierro, María Jesús; Palma, Miguel; Galego, Ludovina; Romano, Anabela; Medronho, Bruno

The fruits of Arbutus unedo L. have a crimson colour and are enriched with remarkable concentrations of bioactive compounds such as anthocyanins and polyphenols. These fruits are commonly used in the production of a Portuguese Protected Geographical Indication distillate called “Aguardente de Medronho”. During this process, a solid pomace is generated and presently discarded without valuable applications. In this work, two strategies have been developed for the valorisation of A. unedo pomace. The first approach considers the extraction of polyphenols from this by-product through the optimization of an ultrasound-assisted method using a Box-Behnken design coupled with response surface methodology. The results indicate that the temperature and the percentage of methanol, along with their interaction, significantly influence the total concentration of polyphenols and the antioxidant activity of the extracts obtained. The optimal conditions identified consider the extraction of 0.5 g of sample with 20 mL of a solvent containing 74% MeOH (aq), at a pH of 4.8, maintained at 70 ◦C for 15 min. On the other hand, the second valorisation strategy considered the use of A. unedo pomace in the development of functional cookies. The incorporation of 15–20% pomace in the cookie formulation was well-received by consumers. This incorporation results in an intake of ca. 6.55 mg of polyphenols per gram of cookie consumed, accompanied by an antioxidant activity of 4.54 mg Trolox equivalents per gram of cookie consumed. Overall, these results encourage the employment of A. unedo pomace either as a reliable source of extracts enriched in polyphenols or as a nutraceutical active ingredient in functional cookies, thereby positively impacting human health.

2023-10-09Journal article

Open Access

Response of thymus lotocephalus in vitro cultures to drought stress and role of green extracts in cosmetics

Publication . Mansinhos, Inês; Gonçalves, Sandra; Rodríguez-Solana, Raquel; Duarte, Hugo; Ordóñez-Díaz, José Luis; Moreno-Rojas, José Manuel; Romano, Anabela

The impact of drought stress induced by polyethylene glycol (PEG) on morphological, physiological, (bio)chemical, and biological characteristics of Thymus lotocephalus López and Morales shoot cultures have been investigated, as well as the potential of iron oxide nanoparticles, salicylic acid, and methyl jasmonate (MeJA) as alleviating drought stress agents. Results showed that PEG caused oxidative stress in a dose-dependent manner, raising H2O2 levels and reducing shoots’ growth, photosynthetic pigment contents, and phenolic compounds production, especially phenolic acids, including the major compound rosmarinic acid. Moreover, Fourier Transform Infrared Spectra analysis revealed that PEG treatment caused changes in shoots’ composition, enhancing terpenoids biosynthesis. PEG also decreased the biological activities (antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and photoprotective) of the eco-friendly extracts obtained with a Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent. MeJA was the most efficient agent in protecting cells from oxidative damage caused by drought, by improving the biosynthesis of phenolics, like methyl 6-O-galloyl-β-D-glucopyranoside and salvianolic acids, as well as improving the extracts’ antioxidant activity. Altogether, the obtained results demonstrated a negative impact of PEG on T. lotocephalus shoots and an effective role of MeJA as a mitigating agent of drought stress. Additionally, extracts showed a good potential to be used in the cosmetics industry as skincare products.

2022-07-28Journal article

Open Access