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Prediction of overwash in alongshore variable barrier islands [Previsão da ocorrência de galgamentos em ilhas barreira com variabilidade longilitoral]

Publication . Matias, Ana Catarina; Carrasco, A. Rita; Loureiro, Carlos; Almeida, S.; Ferreira, Oscar

Overwash prediction is very important for coastal zone management. This work intends to identify alongshore variations in storm impact and evaluate the role of sub-aerial and submerged morphologies in overwash occurrence. For this study, 24 cross-shore topo-bathymetric profiles were set on Barreta Island (Ria Formosa barrier island system, Portugal). Pre- and post-overwash surveys were made between August 2012 and April 2013. During overwash events, tidal levels and wave parameters at breaking were obtained. Overwash occurred under storm and non-storm conditions, the latter coincident with spring high-tide. Beach morphology was spatially variable, and changeable from one overwash episode to the next. Predictions of overwash occurrence were made using the Overwash Potential, defined as the difference between runup and barrier elevation. Several runup equations were tested, and the results compared to the actual observations. The selected predictor provided an accuracy of 88% for the identification of the locations where overwash occurred. This study proves that nearshore and foreshore morphologies have a major impact on the longshore distribution of overwash.

2014Journal article

Open access

Modelling of estuarine response to sea-level rise during the Holocene: Application to the Guadiana Estuary-SW Iberia

Publication . Sampath, DMR; Boski, T.; Loureiro, Carlos; Sousa, Carlos A. Mendes da Silva de

This paper focuses on simulations of the morphological evolution of an estuary during sedimentary infilling that accompanied Holocene sea-level rise. The simulations were conducted using the Estuarine Sedimentation Model, which uses a behaviour-oriented approach, supported by the chronostratigraphy of the estuary's sedimentary sequence. Behaviour curves were computed to represent the relationship between the estuarine channel depth below maximum high tide and the net accretion at a given location relative to the average sedimentation rate of the estuary during the Holocene. The model was validated by comparing the observed present-day bathymetry of the Guadiana River Estuary, southeastern Portugal, with the corresponding simulated bathymetries for nine control sections across the estuary. The best fit between simulated and actual sediment surface elevations was obtained along the cross-sections in the sheltered, low-energy environments of the estuary. The accuracy of the sedimentary stratigraphy of the best-fit model was further established using 16 radiocarbon ages obtained from five boreholes in the estuary. The present approach is particularly suitable for simulating long-term morphological evolution in sheltered estuarine environments where tidally driven vertical aggradation dominates at centennial to millennium timescales. However, the accuracy of simulated sediment surface elevations and consequently the robustness of behaviour-type models based on Geographical Information System platforms can be enhanced by incorporating (i) the impacts of nearshore hydrodynamic processes and episodic flood events in highly energetic channels, and (ii) the impacts of cross-currents in meandering channel sections. (C) 2015 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

2015-03Journal article

Open access

Retrieval of nearshore bathymetry from Landsat 8 images: a tool for coastal monitoring in shallow waters

Publication . Pacheco, André; Horta, João; Loureiro, Carlos; Ferreira, Oscar

Nearshore bathymetry is likely to be the coastal variable that most limits the investigation of coastal processes and the accuracy of numerical models in coastal areas, as acquiring medium spatial resolution data in the nearshore is highly demanding and costly. As such, the ability to derive bathymetry using remote sensing techniques is a topic of increasing interest in coastalmonitoring and research. This contribution focuses on the application of the linear transform algorithm to obtain satellite-derived bathymetry (SDB) maps of the nearshore, at medium resolution (30 m), from freely available and easily accessible Landsat 8 imagery. The algorithm was tuned with available bathymetric Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) data for a 60-km-long nearshore stretch of a highly complex coastal system that includes barrier islands, exposed sandy beaches, and tidal inlets (Ria Formosa, Portugal). A comparison of the retrieved depths is presented, enabling the configuration of nearshore profiles and extracted isobaths to be explored and compared with traditional topographic/bathymetric techniques (e.g., high- and medium-resolution LiDAR data and survey-grade echo-sounding combined with high-precision positioning systems). The results demonstrate that the linear algorithm is efficient for retrieving bathymetry frommulti-spectral satellite data for shallowwater depths (0 to 12 m), showing amean bias of−0.2m, a median difference of −0.1 m, and a root mean square error of 0.89 m. Accuracy is shown to be depth dependent, an inherent limitation of passive optical detection systems. Accuracy further decreases in areas where turbidity is likely to be higher, such as locations adjacent to tidal inlets. The SDB maps provide reliable estimations of the shoreline position and of nearshore isobaths for different cases along the complex coastline analysed. The use of freely available satellite imagery proved to be a quick and reliable method for acquiring updated mediumresolution, high-frequency (days and weeks), low-cost bathymetric information for large areas and depths of up to 12 m in clear waters without wave breaking, allowing almost constant monitoring of the submerged beach and the shoreface.

2015Journal article

Open access