Multi-approach study of coastal inundation and overwash

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Impacts of human interventions on the evolution of the Ria Formosa barrier island system (S. Portugal)

Publication . Kombiadou, Katerina; Matias, Ana; Ferreira, Oscar; Carrasco, A. Rita; Costas, Susana; Plomaritis, Theocharis

Human interventions on sandy barriers disturb natural barrier dynamics, to the extent of having become key forces in modifying geomorphological evolution. This work identifies natural and human-induced drivers and analyses their importance to the multi-decadal evolution of the Ria Formosa barrier island system, in South Portugal. Aerial photographs from the last six decades and historical maps are used to assess changes in cross-shore rates, morphological characteristics (barrier and dune widths, inlet morphology and migration) and barrier areas, through systematic methods that can be easily transferred to other barrier systems. Interventions, and especially hard engineering ones (jetties, inlet stabilisations), affected barrier evolution trends. Shore-perpendicular works increased shoreline progradation updrift and initiated coastal retreat downdrift, with strongest erosive impacts along the edges of the system. Inlet stabilisations changed tidal inlet hydrodynamics and initiated ebb-shoal attachment to the barriers on either side of a non-migrating inlet that experienced loss of tidal prism. This shoal attachment was the main factor for the increase in total barrier area of Ria Formosa during the 60 years of analysis. Barrier growth after 2005 was slower, which could indicate that the system is reaching morphodynamic stability.

2019-10Journal article

Restricted access

Wave runup and overwash on a prototype-scale sand barrier

Publication . Blenkinsopp, C. E.; Matias, Ana; Howe, D.; Castelle, B.; Marieu, V.; Turner, I. L.

Accurate methods to predict wave runup are of critical importance to coastal engineers. Extreme runup during storm conditions can present a danger to coastal infrastructure and lead to dune overtopping and erosion, overwash. of barrier beaches and is an essential design parameter for certain coastal protection works. This paper uses data obtained during the unique BARDEX II prototype-scale laboratory experiment on a reflective sand barrier to investigate wave runup and overwash. Runup measurements were acquired using ultrasonic altimeters, 2D scanning Lidar and camera systems under controlled wave and water level conditions. It was found that extreme runup (R-2%) scaled well with the deepwater Irribarren number where the beach slope was taken to be the beach face gradient. The lower limit of the swash zone, defined by the 2% wave rundown limit was also found to be a function of the Irribarren number and was consistently below the SWL in all tests. The high resolution free-surface measurements obtained using the ultrasonic altimeters and Lidar enabled an analysis of the dynamics of individual swash events. It was found that the vertical runup excursion of each swash correlated strongly with the height of the bore at collapse, and could be predicted based on the assumption of a conversion of potential to kinetic energy at bore collapse. (C) 2015 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

2016-07Journal article

Restricted access

Prediction of overwash in alongshore variable barrier islands [Previsão da ocorrência de galgamentos em ilhas barreira com variabilidade longilitoral]

Publication . Matias, Ana Catarina; Carrasco, A. Rita; Loureiro, Carlos; Almeida, S.; Ferreira, Oscar

Overwash prediction is very important for coastal zone management. This work intends to identify alongshore variations in storm impact and evaluate the role of sub-aerial and submerged morphologies in overwash occurrence. For this study, 24 cross-shore topo-bathymetric profiles were set on Barreta Island (Ria Formosa barrier island system, Portugal). Pre- and post-overwash surveys were made between August 2012 and April 2013. During overwash events, tidal levels and wave parameters at breaking were obtained. Overwash occurred under storm and non-storm conditions, the latter coincident with spring high-tide. Beach morphology was spatially variable, and changeable from one overwash episode to the next. Predictions of overwash occurrence were made using the Overwash Potential, defined as the difference between runup and barrier elevation. Several runup equations were tested, and the results compared to the actual observations. The selected predictor provided an accuracy of 88% for the identification of the locations where overwash occurred. This study proves that nearshore and foreshore morphologies have a major impact on the longshore distribution of overwash.

2014Journal article

Open access

Overtopping hazard on a rubble mound breakwater

Publication . Carrasco, A. Rita; Reis, Maria T.; Neves, Maria G.; Ferreira, Oscar; Matias, Ana; Almeida, Sílvia

A major concern of coastal engineering is not only to access the damage to coastal structures by severe wave overtopping, but also the hazard imposed to users. Local hazard is often associated to the volume of overtopping water per unit of time (called overtopping discharge). Despite two decades of intensive research, it is yet not fully clear to practitioners what is the best method to compute the discharge parameter and its application on the assessment of local hazard. This work provides insight into the overtopping characterization in rubble mound breakwaters, by distinguishing different methods to assess hazardous overtopping. Fieldwork was conducted over a tidal cycle in a breakwater located at Albufeira Harbour (South coast of Portugal) under storm conditions (Hso~ 3 m; Tp ~ 9 s). Mean overtopping discharges were calculated from field measurements of flow depths and velocities at the breakwater slope armour and at the impermeable crest. Two different velocities were calculated: overtopping leading-edge velocity and overtopping peak velocity. The two methods provided similar results, with higher velocities occurring during high-tide (between 2 and 10 m/s). Mean overtopping discharges at the beginning of the impermeable crest ranged between 0.2 and 0.8 l/s/m. Under the measured hydrodynamic conditions, the breakwater offers risk to all types of pedestrians. Additionally it is shown that field measurements compare relatively well with empirical prediction methods (for the overall analysed overtopping events), namely the corrected NN_OVERTOPPING2 neural network tool. Besides contributing to the overall database on wave overtopping in coastal structures, the presented results can also be used for calibration and validation of overtopping evaluation methods (empirical formulae, artificial neural networks and numerical and physical models).

2014Journal article

Restricted access