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Longitudinal wave power as a proxy for coastal change detection

2026-05-08Artigo científico Acesso aberto
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datacite.subject.sdg13:Ação Climática
datacite.subject.sdg14:Proteger a Vida Marinha
datacite.subject.sdg11:Cidades e Comunidades Sustentáveis
dc.contributor.authorAragón, Marta
dc.contributor.authorFerreira, Óscar
dc.contributor.authorLópez-Ruiz, Alejandro
dc.contributor.authorOrtega-Sánchez, Miguel
dc.date.accessioned2026-06-24T08:43:19Z
dc.date.available2026-06-24T08:43:19Z
dc.date.issued2026-05-08
dc.description.abstractCoastal areas are subject to atmospheric, fluvial and marine hazards that can cause relevant morphological changes. Wave height (Hs) is the most commonly used climate variable to define morphological changes in coastal engineering studies. However, this approach fails to capture directional effects, which are essential for predicting and managing shoreline erosion and associated risks. This work introduces a methodology that identifies relevant morphological changes (morphological events) by using the longitudinal wave power (LWP), after defining an optimized set of Peak Over Threshold (POT) parameters. The morphological evolution of an idealized river mouth was simulated using the Delft3D numerical model and six different wave climate conditions along with tidal and river flow conditions. The optimized LWP approach performed better than Hs in identifying morphological changes, providing a better agreement between climatological and morphological events. The methodology was further validated through its application to two real-world sites along the southern Iberian Peninsula incorporating real wave conditions, variable river discharges, and complete tidal regimes. In these areas, the numerical models had been previously calibrated. The results confirm the robustness and transferability of the methodology beyond idealized conditions. By considering both erosional and accretional processes, this LWP-based methodology offers coastal managers a robust, physics-based tool for predicting morphological responses to wave conditions, supporting the development of early warning systems on inlet-adjacent shorelines.eng
dc.identifier.doi10.5194/nhess-26-2065-2026
dc.identifier.issn1684-9981
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/29132
dc.language.isoeng
dc.peerreviewedyes
dc.publisherEuropean Geosciences Union
dc.relationAquatic Research Infrastructure Network
dc.relationCentre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA)
dc.relation.ispartofNatural Hazards and Earth System Sciences
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
dc.titleLongitudinal wave power as a proxy for coastal change detectioneng
dc.typejournal article
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.awardNumberLA/P/0069/2020
oaire.awardNumberUIDP/00350/2020
oaire.awardTitleAquatic Research Infrastructure Network
oaire.awardTitleCentre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA)
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/LA%2FP%2F0069%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDP%2F00350%2F2020/PT
oaire.citation.issue5
oaire.citation.titleNatural Hazards and Earth System Sciences
oaire.citation.volume26
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.versionhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_ab4af688f83e57aa
person.familyNameFerreira
person.givenNameÓscar
person.identifier.ciencia-id1F1C-DF44-94C9
person.identifier.orcid0000-0001-9975-0036
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
relation.isAuthorOfPublication14adf536-4f81-42de-b00f-6d1cf3b0d75e
relation.isAuthorOfPublication.latestForDiscovery14adf536-4f81-42de-b00f-6d1cf3b0d75e
relation.isProjectOfPublication5af011f9-3888-449a-a18c-d08b59e87091
relation.isProjectOfPublication62b4d568-8b21-464c-97ed-de826eab4136
relation.isProjectOfPublication.latestForDiscovery5af011f9-3888-449a-a18c-d08b59e87091

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