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Longshore and cross-shore morphological variability of a berm-bar system under low to moderate wave energy

2017-09Journal article Restricted access
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dc.contributor.authorLopez-Doriga, Uxia
dc.contributor.authorFerreira, Oscar
dc.date.accessioned2019-11-20T15:07:23Z
dc.date.available2019-11-20T15:07:23Z
dc.date.issued2017-09
dc.description.abstractThe morphological variability of a berm-bar system is highly dependent on wave conditions with direct consequences for the evolution of the nearby coast; however, an understanding of this variability based on field measurements is still lacking, in particular with respect to the assessment of both longshore and cross-shore components. In this study, the berm-bar morphological changes were assessed by simultaneously measuring longshore and cross-shore variability as well as the forcing mechanisms (i.e. wave conditions). A sandy beach in southern Portugal (Tavira Barrier Island, Ria Formosa) was surveyed from the dune crest to 20-m depth along six profiles over a period of 16 months. Wave time series between surveys were analysed to obtain relationships between wave conditions, the depth of closure, and berm-bar variations. For the surveyed period, waves approached mainly from the W-SW (78% of the time) and E-SE (18%), and eight moderate storms were recorded. Results show that the active zone of the profiles descends to 6 m below mean sea level (MSL), the maximum depth of closure registered. On the basis of the pattern of vertical variability, the profiles can be divided into three cross-shore sectors: A (emerged beach and berm), B (subtidal terrace), and C (submerged longshore bar). A new index (longshore vs. cross-shore [LvC]) is proposed, relating the dominance of longshore or cross-shore processes to volumetric changes resulting from sediment transport. In the study area, cross-shore sediment transfer (LvC similar to 0) dominated when the largest and longest storms occurred and is associated with storm erosion and poststorm recovery. Longshore dominance (LvC similar to 1 and 1 for erosion and accretion, respectively) occurred during periods with smaller and shorter storms. The proposed index allows the relative roles of cross-shore vs. longshore processes in coastal areas with berm-bar interaction to be distinguished.
dc.identifier.doihttps://doi.org/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-16-00050.1
dc.identifier.issn0749-0208
dc.identifier.issn1551-5036
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/13014
dc.language.isoeng
dc.peerreviewedyes
dc.publisherCoastal Education and Research Foundation
dc.subjectVideo observations
dc.subjectSouthern Portugal
dc.subjectMacrotidal beach
dc.subjectSandy beach
dc.subjectNearshore
dc.subjectBehavior
dc.subjectMorphodynamics
dc.subjectTransport
dc.subjectExamples
dc.subjectProfile active zone
dc.subjectVolumetric changes
dc.subjectStorms
dc.subjectDepth of closure
dc.subjectSediment Transfer
dc.titleLongshore and cross-shore morphological variability of a berm-bar system under low to moderate wave energy
dc.typejournal article
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/3599-PPCDT/PTDC%2FMAR-EST%2F3485%2F2012/PT
oaire.citation.endPage1171
oaire.citation.issue5
oaire.citation.startPage1161
oaire.citation.titleJournal of Coastal Research
oaire.citation.volume33
oaire.fundingStream3599-PPCDT
person.familyNameFerreira
person.givenNameÓscar
person.identifier.ciencia-id1F1C-DF44-94C9
person.identifier.orcid0000-0001-9975-0036
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
rcaap.rightsrestrictedAccess
rcaap.typearticle
relation.isAuthorOfPublication14adf536-4f81-42de-b00f-6d1cf3b0d75e
relation.isAuthorOfPublication.latestForDiscovery14adf536-4f81-42de-b00f-6d1cf3b0d75e
relation.isProjectOfPublication88e7a5f2-4cc4-4479-9ff7-cd9d61a49830
relation.isProjectOfPublication.latestForDiscovery88e7a5f2-4cc4-4479-9ff7-cd9d61a49830

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