Modeling of coastal erosion in exposed and groin-protected steep beaches

Garzon, Juan L.; Ferreira, Oscar; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.

Publication

Modeling of coastal erosion in exposed and groin-protected steep beaches

2022Journal article

dc.contributor.author	Garzon, Juan L.
dc.contributor.author	Ferreira, Oscar
dc.contributor.author	Plomaritis, Theocharis A.
dc.date.accessioned	2022-07-29T09:34:42Z
dc.date.available	2022-07-29T09:34:42Z
dc.date.issued	2022
dc.description.abstract	Process-based models are suitable tools for reproducing storm-driven erosion. However, their performance has been mainly examined on mild-slope sandy beaches and their use on steep beaches still represents a challenge. Here, open-source process-based model XBeach experiments were combined with topographical measurements collected for two storms (16- and 5-year return period) to obtain a reliable model. The model parameters “facua” (parameterized wave asymmetry and skewness sediment transport component), “bermslope” (upslope transport term for semireflective beaches), and “wetslope” (critical avalanching submerged slope) were utilized for calibration and validation. The 16-year storm simulations on an exposed beach revealed that whether bermslope increased and “facua” must be reduced, and vice versa, to properly simulate erosion. Adding bermslope provided excellent results for these storms when using facua and wetslope values close to the recommended values. In a groin-protected site, XBeach was successfully calibrated and validated for the tested storms using these parameters, although with different values. These experiments demonstrated that the appropriate use of these parameters can satisfactorily simulate morphological changes on steep beaches for different hydrodynamic conditions and coastal settings (exposed and groin protected).	pt_PT
dc.description.sponsorship	ALG-LISBOA-01-145-FEDER-028657; PID2019-109143RB-I00; FEDERUCA18-107062
dc.description.version	info:eu-repo/semantics/acceptedVersion	pt_PT
dc.identifier.doi	10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000719	pt_PT
dc.identifier.eissn	1943-5460
dc.identifier.uri	http://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/18132
dc.language.iso	eng	pt_PT
dc.peerreviewed	yes	pt_PT
dc.publisher	American Society of Civil Engineers	pt_PT
dc.relation	Centre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA)
dc.relation.publisherversion	https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/%28ASCE%29WW.1943-5460.0000719	pt_PT
dc.rights.uri	http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/	pt_PT
dc.title	Modeling of coastal erosion in exposed and groin-protected steep beaches	pt_PT
dc.type	journal article
dspace.entity.type	Publication
oaire.awardTitle	Centre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA)
oaire.awardURI	info:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDP%2F00350%2F2020/PT
oaire.citation.issue	6	pt_PT
oaire.citation.title	Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering	pt_PT
oaire.citation.volume	148	pt_PT
oaire.fundingStream	6817 - DCRRNI ID
person.familyName	Garzon
person.familyName	Ferreira
person.givenName	Juan L.
person.givenName	Óscar
person.identifier.ciencia-id	CB1A-D085-6C56
person.identifier.ciencia-id	1F1C-DF44-94C9
person.identifier.orcid	0000-0001-7641-4144
person.identifier.orcid	0000-0001-9975-0036
project.funder.identifier	http://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.name	Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
rcaap.rights	openAccess	pt_PT
rcaap.type	article	pt_PT
relation.isAuthorOfPublication	f54b4900-9c75-4882-9375-908eca195474
relation.isAuthorOfPublication	14adf536-4f81-42de-b00f-6d1cf3b0d75e
relation.isAuthorOfPublication.latestForDiscovery	14adf536-4f81-42de-b00f-6d1cf3b0d75e
relation.isProjectOfPublication	62b4d568-8b21-464c-97ed-de826eab4136
relation.isProjectOfPublication.latestForDiscovery	62b4d568-8b21-464c-97ed-de826eab4136