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Adsorption of cationic lignin derivatives on negatively charged model surfaces and hair fibers: implications for hair conditioning performance

2026-06-29Artigo científico Acesso aberto
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datacite.subject.sdg12:Produção e Consumo Sustentáveis
datacite.subject.sdg09:Indústria, Inovação e Infraestruturas
datacite.subject.sdg03:Saúde de Qualidade
dc.contributor.authorCatarina Fernandes
dc.contributor.authorCabaça, Daniela
dc.contributor.authorGuzmán, Eduardo
dc.contributor.authorSerra, Ricardo
dc.contributor.authorEivazi, Alireza
dc.contributor.authorNorgren, Magnus
dc.contributor.authorAlves, Luís
dc.contributor.authorMedronho, Bruno
dc.contributor.authorRasteiro, Maria da Graça
dc.contributor.authorVarela, Carla
dc.date.accessioned2026-09-11T15:24:37Z
dc.date.available2026-09-11T15:24:37Z
dc.date.issued2026-06-29
dc.description.abstractThe application of cosmetic ingredients into hair formulations relies on their extensive characterization and on understanding their mechanisms of action. Specifically, in the case of hair conditioning agents, their efficiency in treating hair must be proved before testing them on real complex formulations. In this work, we investigate the deposition of three cationic polymers onto model surfaces that mimic the negative surface potential of highly damaged hair. Two CHPTAC-cationized lignins (CL0.34 and CL0.61) were evaluated and compared with a commercial polyquaternium (PQ11). The two selected lignin derivatives exhibited different degrees of cationic substitution (DS) and ζ-potential (CL0.34: DS = 0.34 ± 0.01 and ζ-potential = 12.8 ± 0.4 mV; CL0.61: DS = 0.61 ± 0.03 and ζ-potential = 18.8 ± 0.3 mV). Atomic force microscopy (AFM) and quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring (QCM-D) were used to evaluate the adsorbed layers formed by the polymers and their mechanical properties. Among the tested lignin conditioning agents, CL0.61 exhibited conditioning behavior, forming layers whose properties closely resembled those of the benchmark polymer PQ11. CL0.61 and PQ11 were both efficient at reducing the frizz effect on real bleached hair, effectively overcompensating the hair surface potential, which shifted from negative to positive values, confirming their effective adsorption after conditioning and rinsing. By combining advanced interfacial characterization with structure–property–function relationships, this work provides fundamental insights into polymer adsorption and performance at biointerfaces, supporting the rational design of functional materials and highlighting the potential of cationic lignin derivatives as viable, biobased conditioning agents for future hair-care formulations.eng
dc.description.sponsorshipUID/00102/2025; UID/PRR/00102/2025; UID/05183/2025; UID/04650/2025; UID/00285/2025
dc.identifier.doi10.1021/acsami.6c09520
dc.identifier.eissn1944-8252
dc.identifier.issn1944-8244
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/29431
dc.language.isoeng
dc.peerreviewedyes
dc.publisherAmerican Chemical Society (ACS)
dc.relationCHANGE - Global Change and Sustainability Institute
dc.relation.ispartofACS Applied Materials & Interfaces
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
dc.subjectBiobased polymers
dc.subjectLignin valorization
dc.subjectCosmetic ingredients
dc.subjectHair care
dc.subjectPolymer adsorption
dc.subjectPolyquaternium
dc.subjectSurface charge
dc.titleAdsorption of cationic lignin derivatives on negatively charged model surfaces and hair fibers: implications for hair conditioning performanceeng
dc.typejournal article
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.awardNumberLA/P/0121/2020
oaire.awardTitleCHANGE - Global Change and Sustainability Institute
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/LA%2FP%2F0121%2F2020/PT
oaire.citation.endPage39522
oaire.citation.issue28
oaire.citation.startPage39510
oaire.citation.titleACS Applied Materials & Interfaces
oaire.citation.volume18
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.versionhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
person.familyNameMedronho
person.givenNameBruno
person.identifier.ciencia-id6918-9AB3-8D22
person.identifier.orcid0000-0003-0972-1739
person.identifier.ridP-5927-2014
person.identifier.scopus-author-id9940656700
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
relation.isAuthorOfPublication4c03571a-93da-4504-8acf-c74326449852
relation.isAuthorOfPublication.latestForDiscovery4c03571a-93da-4504-8acf-c74326449852
relation.isProjectOfPublication76778384-d236-4a36-b64b-882e4c653cd1
relation.isProjectOfPublication.latestForDiscovery76778384-d236-4a36-b64b-882e4c653cd1

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