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Distinct shoreline behaviour along storm‐dominated and geologically controlled coastal barriers

2025-03-25Journal article Restricted access
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dc.contributor.authorKümmerer, Vincent
dc.contributor.authorFerreira, Óscar
dc.contributor.authorLoureiro, Carlos
dc.date.accessioned2025-04-10T10:03:27Z
dc.date.available2025-04-10T10:03:27Z
dc.date.issued2025-03-25
dc.description.abstractContemporary shoreline change is driven by a complex combination of factors, and as such is often highly variable along the coast. While differences in beach morphology can explain some of the variability in shoreline change, the geological constraints imposed by coastal geology are often overlooked. This work examines the influence of foreshore configurations with varying degrees of non-dynamic geological control, which are analysed in combination with hydrodynamic forcing to investigate seasonal to multiannual shoreline evolution along five coastal barriers in the Outer Hebrides, Western Scotland. These barriers are characterised by strongly geologically constrained evolution and are exposed to a storm-dominated wave climate. Due to the variable temporal interval between available cloud-free Planet Scope images, monthly averaged vegetation lines from 2016 to 2023 were derived from satellite imagery as a shoreline position indicator using an automated approach validated by visual inspection. The satellite-derived vegetation lines have a sub-pixel accuracy with a root mean square error of 3 m. Changes in monthly averaged shoreline position are statistically correlated with monthly extreme storm conditions, characterised by both extreme water levels and wave conditions. However, the control exerted by the variable geological configuration along the barriers results in distinct inter- and intra-site shoreline change behaviour, with lower shoreline variability observed in barrier sectors fronted by rocky foreshores, compared to sediment-rich foreshores. The observed multiannual shoreline change from 2016 to 2023 is characterised by a small but statistically significant accreting trend (mean 0.4 m/yr), likely representing the recovery of the barriers from extreme winter storms that impacted northern European coasts from 2013 to 2015. The results demonstrate that considering variable geological controls in shoreline change assessments improves the understanding of shoreline variability along coastal barriers, allowing to identify distinct storm-driven shoreline behaviour according to the degree of geological control.eng
dc.description.sponsorshipUID/0350/2020; CEECINST/00052/2021/CP2792/CT0011; BSG-2022-30
dc.identifier.doi10.1002/esp.70042
dc.identifier.eissn1096-9837
dc.identifier.issn0197-9337
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/27001
dc.language.isoeng
dc.peerreviewedyes
dc.publisherWiley
dc.relationStorm processes and impacts in geologically controlled barrier islands
dc.relationAquatic Research Infrastructure Network
dc.relationCentre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA)
dc.relation.ispartofEarth Surface Processes and Landforms
dc.rights.uriN/A
dc.subjectCoastal storm
dc.subjectExtreme storm
dc.subjectForeshore
dc.subjectGeological control
dc.subjectPlanet Scope
dc.subjectSatellite imagery
dc.subjectShoreline change
dc.subjectVegetation line
dc.subjectWestern Scotland
dc.titleDistinct shoreline behaviour along storm‐dominated and geologically controlled coastal barrierseng
dc.typejournal article
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.awardTitleStorm processes and impacts in geologically controlled barrier islands
oaire.awardTitleAquatic Research Infrastructure Network
oaire.awardTitleCentre for Marine and Environmental Research (CIMA)
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT//2020.07497.BD/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/LA%2FP%2F0069%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UIDB%2F00350%2F2020/PT
oaire.citation.issue4
oaire.citation.titleEarth Surface Processes and Landforms
oaire.citation.volume50
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.versionhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
person.familyNameKümmerer
person.familyNameFerreira
person.familyNameLoureiro
person.givenNameVincent
person.givenNameÓscar
person.givenNameCarlos
person.identifier453264
person.identifier.ciencia-id3D15-4ADE-0CDF
person.identifier.ciencia-id1F1C-DF44-94C9
person.identifier.ciencia-id011D-31BD-C6B6
person.identifier.orcid0000-0003-0925-2047
person.identifier.orcid0000-0001-9975-0036
person.identifier.orcid0000-0003-3117-3492
person.identifier.ridU-9863-2018
person.identifier.scopus-author-id23667861200
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
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