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Sediment dynamics and tidal inlet relocation in mixed-energy settings: the case of Ancão inlet (Algarve - Portugal)
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Abstract(s)
The main aim of this thesis is to study the sedimentary dynamics of mixed
energy tidal inlets on different time scales (from hours to decades) as well as to
analyse inlet relocation as a coastal management tool. The field studies were
carried out in the Ria Formosa, a multi-inlet barrier island system located in
southern Portugal.
Long Term Studies: The four natural inlets of the Ria Formosa were studied
for the period between the 1940’s and 1996. Inlet width and position of the inlet
channel were determined using a series of vertical aerial photos and charts. The
objective was to determine the association between inlet migration patterns and
different hydrodynamic conditions, major storms and engineering interventions.
Results indicate that natural inlet opening and evolution were mainly affected by
three factors: (a) the existence of sub-embayments (western and eastern) inside
the system, (b) exposure to wave energy, and (c) inlet efficiency. Two distinctive
eastward migration patterns were found by analysing the correlation coefficient
(r) between inlet width evolution and inlet migration and by the comparison of
the shape of the curves fitted to the inlet migration behaviour. Typical migration
of the high-energy flank is characterised by an initial stage of readjustment, with
low migration rates, followed by a stage of high eastward migration rates, up to
a limiting position. Inlet width remains reasonably constant during the entire
migration cycle, thus the correlation between inlet width and position is very
low. Typical inlets on the low-energy flank are formed by barrier breaching during
major storms and produce, initially, very wide inlets. Eastward inlet migration on
the low-energy flank follows a natural logarithmic curve where channel migration
is accompanied by strong constructional processes on the updrift barrier. Due
to subsequent inlet width reductions, the correlation between inlet width and
position is significant.
Medium Term Studies: A monitoring program, including the acquisition of
a series of topo-bathymetric surveys and oblique aerial photos, has been carried
out at Anc˜ao Inlet since its artificial opening in June 1997. The results (morphologic
and volumetric) were analysed with relation to the prevailing oceanographic
conditions. This allowed the development of a conceptual evolutionary model for
the natural evolution of artificially opened inlets with 4 stages: Stage 1 is the
artificially opened inlet; Stage 2 represents the inlet after reaching dynamic equilibrium
for the channel and while it is developing the deltas; Stage 3 is the mature
migrating inlet; and Stage PS (Post-Storm) is the inlet situation after high-energy
conditions. Transition between stages 1 to 3 is a continuous process with intermediate
sub-stages. Transition to Stage PS is a discrete phenomenon, caused
by high-energy events, after which the inlet continuously changes back to the
previous stage.
Short Term Studies: Three sediment transport studies using tracers were performed
at Anc˜ao Inlet. The objectives of the experiments were to determine
and understand the sediment transport pathways and magnitudes on the updrift
margin of an inlet. In order to apply the traditionally used Space Integration
Methodology to the tracer experiments, some adaptations had to be made. The
division of the study area into morphologically defined sectors was found to be
a key factor for the applicability of tracers in such a complex area. Therefore,
4 sectors were defined: Sector A representing the straight part of the updrift
beach; Sector B being the upper area of the swash platform; Sector C being
the lower area of the swash platform; and Sector D representing the inner parts
of the inlet margin. The integrated study of all data (wind, waves, currents,
tracer distribution and topographic evolution) led to the determination of the
sediment pathways. Three tidal stages (TS), associated with distinctive sediment
transport patterns, were found to occur at the inlet margin during each tidal
cycle: TS1 implies flooding currents, and thus, transport towards the inside of
the inlet area, both on the swash platform and the inner parts of the inlet area;
during TS2 flooding currents transporting sediments towards the inlet occur on
the swash platform whilst the interaction of the flooding currents with the flood
delta produces the development of an anticlockwise internal gyre (IG) that results
in ebbing currents occurring in the inner inlet margin; TS3 implies ebbing
transport both in the inner margin and the swash platform. Evidence of the
existence of a clockwise external gyre (EG) on the swash platform was found. A
semi-quantitative conceptual model was developed in order to explain the sediment
transport pathways and magnitudes that a known mass of sediment would
follow after arriving at the swash platform. It was found that the areas with the
largest sediment accumulation were Sector B and C, whilst almost no sediment
was retained in Sector D which underwent strong erosive processes. According
to the model only 48% of the initial mass of sediments are still in the system
after two tidal cycles. It is hypothesised that sediment losses are due to sediment
transport towards the ebb delta and to sediment by-passing occurring from
the ebb delta to the downdrift beach through swash bar processes. The herein
defined conceptual model represents a useful tool that could be applied to other
tidal inlets under similar conditions, facilitating sediment budget studies around
tidal inlets.
Inlet Relocation Assessment: Two inlets were relocated in the Ria Formosa
and were the subject of a monitoring program that included the acquisition of
quantitative (topo-bathymetric surveys) data. The data obtained from the monitoring
program were analysed together with the wave climate and then compared
with historical information on the natural inlets, in order to assess the degree
of success of the relocation actions. One of the relocations studied, Anc˜ao Inlet,
was considered to be successful even though an initial unexpected behaviour
produced some material damage to property. On the contrary, the relocation of
Fuzeta Inlet, did not have the expected results and the new inlet was effected by
the same problems as the old one.
It was found that the most important factor for a relocation action to succeed
is the correct choice of the location of the opening. A theoretical procedure to
enhance the possibilities of relocation success is suggested: (1) Hydrodynamic
studies are needed in order to determine if the present conditions are similar to
the historical ones. (2) The position for the inlet opening is chosen according to
the hydrodynamic conditions but there are other factors to be taken into account,
i.e., the historical migration paths and typical inlet width of the natural inlet;
the hydrodynamics of the backbarrier; the morphology of the backbarrier and, for
multi-inlet barrier island systems, the proximity to adjacent inlets. (3) Once the
position is chosen, environmental impact studies should be made in order to assess
the risk of the relocation for the ecosystems of the area. Only if the environmental
impact studies are favourable, should a relocation action be performed.
Description
Tese de dout., Ciências do Mar, Faculdade de Ciências do Mar e do Ambiente, Univ. do Algarve, 2003
Keywords
Oceanografia Dinâmica sedimentar Barras de maré Relocalização de barras Gestão costeira Ria Formosa - Algarve