Browsing by Author "Plomaritis, Theocharis A."
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- Assessing the effects of Tidal Energy Converter array size on hydrodynamics of Ria Formosa (Portugal)Publication . G-Gorbeña, Eduardo; Pacheco, André; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Sequeira, ClaudiaThis paper investigates the effects of Tidal Energy Converter (TEC) array size at a tidal channel on flood/ebb discharges at multi-inlet coastal lagoon by applying numerical modelling. The paper presents a case study for the Faro-Olhão inlet in the Ria Formosa (Portugal), a potential site for tidal in-stream energy extraction. Arrays of up to 11 rows with 5 TECs each were studied to assess impacts on inlets discharges changes. For the particular cases assessed the results show that tidal energy extraction will have a greater impact on Ancão and Armona inlets discharges together with the Faro-Olhão inlet. Future work is directed to include impacts on sediment dynamics and optimise TEC array size as a function of multiple design variables subject to environmental constraints.
- Assessing the effects of Tidal Energy Converter array size on hydrodynamics of Ria Formosa (Portugal)Publication . González-Gorbeña, Eduardo; Pacheco, André; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Sequeira, Claudia
- Barrier island resilience assessment: Applying the ecological principles to geomorphological dataPublication . Kombiadou, Katerina; Matias, Ana; Costas, Susana; Carrasco, A. Rita; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Ferreira, ÓscarApplying the ecological resilience principles to barrier island geomorphological evolution requires approaches that perceive and interpret resilience far from predefined barrier characteristics and static views. Accepting that barrier islands, like all natural systems, are dynamic and adaptively changing in response to external disturbances is fundamental to the formulated approach. To this aim, geomorphological units and dimensions were used to describe barrier island stability landscape as an actively shifting ‘topography’, reshaping in response to exogenous events and in relation to intrinsic properties. The structure of the subaerial barrier was characterised using the environmental units of Beach, Dune and Marsh (or BDM), where different combinations of BDM structure define distinct barrier stable states, under a simplified framework that is applicable over a wide range of barrier structures. The methodology is based on reconstructing resilience trajectories of barrier islands through identifying the distinct BDM states and related shifts (thresholds crossed) and assessing resilience dimensions (latitude, resistance and precariousness defined as barrier width and height and proximity to mainland, respectively) that, jointly, define the shape of the stability domain. The approach was applied to the Ria Formosa barrier island system (S. Portugal), using multi-decadal geomorphological data and gradually decreasing spatial discretisation, passing from individual barrier transects to sectors and to entire barriers. The joint evolution of two inland-migrating barriers (Cabanas Island and Cacela Peninsula) was used as an exemplar of adaptive capacity in barrier geomorphic change and, therefore, of resilient response to external pressures. Resilience pathways showed that the Ria Formosa barriers have been resilient over the studied timeframe, with a tendency for maintaining or increasing BDM structural complexity. In general, the stability domain tends to shift from low latitude and high resistance forms (narrow-deep basins of attraction) in the west part of the barrier chain, to higher latitudes and lower resistance ones (wide-shallow basins) towards the east. Precariousness peaks near the edges of the system (low lagoon width) and minimises towards the central part (most detached barriers). Scaling issues regarding smoothing of longshore variability and potential consequences on masking thresholds and critical dimensions are highlighted and discussed, along with the key role of the meaning of specified resilience (of what?) in the assessment. The methodology is a novel approach, easily transferable to different systems and spatiotemporal scales of analysis, representing a step forward in interpreting and assessing barrier island resilience.
- Contribution of storms to shoreline changes in mesotidal dissipative beaches: case study in the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Spain)Publication . Puig, Maria; Del Rio, Laura; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Benavente, JavierIn this study an analysis of storminess and rates of shoreline change is performed and discussed jointly in four geomorphological units of the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Spain) for the period of 1956-2010. For this purpose, storm events are identified based on the following characteristics: wave height above 2.5 m, a minimum duration of 12 h and events with calm periods of less than 24 h were considered as a single event. Subsequently, energy parameters are determined in order to characterize storm-induced impacts. Conversely, geographic information system (GIS) tools are used to measure shoreline changes in aerial photographs and orthophotographs of each site, selecting the high water line as shoreline proxy. Each geomorphological unit is divided into different behavioural patterns according to recorded coastal changes, so that each one shows a particular behaviour.In general the variability of shoreline changes that is explained by storms and the relation between storm parameters and coastal changes present better results in exposed areas (Cadiz and Vistahermosa) than in sheltered areas (Valdelagrana spit barrier) because the former are more sensitive to storm impacts. On the contrary, in areas where there is no relation between coastal changes and storm parameters (Valdelagrana and Sancti Petri sand spit), it is suggested that anthropogenic factors are the main forcing agents determining shoreline behaviour. However, in these areas the storminess also modulates coastline recession by increasing erosion when the number of storms is high.
- Contribution of storms to shoreline changes in mesotidal dissipative beaches: case study in the Gulf of Cádiz (SW Spain)Publication . Puig, María; Del Río, Laura; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Benavente, JavierIn this study an analysis of storminess and rates of shoreline change is performed and discussed jointly in four geomorphological units of the Gulf of Cádiz (SW Spain) for the period of 1956–2010. For this purpose, storm events are identified based on the following characteristics: wave height above 2.5 m, a minimum duration of 12 h and events with calm periods of less than 24 h were considered as a single event. Subsequently, energy parameters are determined in order to characterize storm-induced impacts. Conversely, geographic information system (GIS) tools are used to measure shoreline changes in aerial photographs and orthophotographs of each site, selecting the high water line as shoreline proxy. Each geomorphological unit is divided into different behavioural patterns according to recorded coastal changes, so that each one shows a particular behaviour. In general the variability of shoreline changes that is explained by storms and the relation between storm parameters and coastal changes present better results in exposed areas (Cádiz and Vistahermosa) than in sheltered areas (Valdelagrana spit barrier) because the former are more sensitive to storm impacts. On the contrary, in areas where there is no relation between coastal changes and storm parameters (Valdelagrana and Sancti Petri sand spit), it is suggested that anthropogenic factors are the main forcing agents determining shoreline behaviour. However, in these areas the storminess also modulates coastline recession by increasing erosion when the number of storms is high.
- Erasmus experience between the University of Cadiz (Spain) and the University of Algarve (Portugal)Publication . Laiz, Irene; Relvas, Paulo; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Garel, ErwanA mobility program was carried out during the last two years between the Universities of Cadiz (Spain) and Algarve (Portugal) under the EU funded Erasmus+ Mobility for Teaching. The objective of the mobility was twofold: on one hand, it included the strengthening of the existing scientific cooperation between the University of Cadiz (home institution) and the University of Algarve (host institution) in the field of the Gulf of Cadiz Physical Oceanography; on the other hand, it pretended to improve the teaching quality, focusing on both the lecturers and the students. Both institutions have long ties of cooperation that have recently been intensified under the umbrella of the International Campus of Marine Excellence (CeiMar). Specific objectives oriented towards the lecturers included the exchange of teaching experiences among them as well as the comparison of teaching strategies and methodologies between the host and home institutions at the Master level in order to evaluate and enhance the best teaching practices with the aim of improving the students learning process. Specific objectives oriented towards the students included: (1) to provide local students that cannot afford studying a Master degree abroad with a foreign teacher in the discipline that will offer them different added expectations; (2) to teach students different subjects from those taught at the host institution, thus benefitting from new scientific knowledge and experiences. It must be pointed out that the subject taught by the home institution lecturer represents a competence lacking at the host institution, hence complementing the program of the discipline and providing an added value to the Master degree. Informal questionnaires carried out among students by the host institution revealed that they evaluated having a foreign teacher as a very positive experience. In terms of research, collaboration among both institutions is of great importance because they are both located within the same geographic region and hence, they share common interests. The mobility promoted finishing on-going collaborative publications as well as sharing new research experiences, data and knowledge, hence leading to an improvement of the Physical Oceanography state-of-the-art in the Gulf of Cadiz. In fact, two scientific papers on the Gulf of Cadiz circulation system and two on the storm climate along the Gulf of Cadiz and its relation with coastal hazards have been recently published as a direct result of the mobility program.
- Exploring foredune growth capacity in a coarse sandy beachPublication . Costas, Susana; Bon de Sousa, Luísa; Kombiadou, Katerina; Ferreira, Oscar; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.Dunes are key elements of coastal landscapes in almost every latitude. They host high levels of biodiversity and provide important benefits to society; e.g. protection against floods and erosion, or recreation. Coastal dune growth is constrained by intrinsic factors, which are critical when managing dune systems or choosing coastal dune restoration as an alternative green solution for coastal protection. Here, the evolution of a beach-dune system, characterized by a reflective coarse sandy beach and low dunes, is explored to identify the favourable and optimal conditions for dune growth in these settings. Dune growth capacity is evaluated by analysing the topographical changes observed along a coastal dune over two different temporal scales (interannual and event scale) and comparing the observations with theoretical approximations of sediment transport potentials. Observations and predictions over interannual scale document that (1) temporal variability in external conditions (wind regime) and spatial variability of estimated wind fetch length, alone, fail to explain alongshore dune growth patterns and (2) optimal conditions for dune growth occur when storms (strong winds) impact the study area, jointly with low runup levels, at zones of shoreline progradation and absence of direct human influence. Conversely, lowest values of dune accumulation are associated with areas where shoreline retreat was documented. Observations from event timescales suggest that sediment transport potential can be reached over zones with no significant signs of beach erosion, if runup levels remain low and the event duration is shorter than the time scale of sand surface depletion within the upper beach.
- Identification of risk hotspots to storm events in a coastal region with high morphodynamic alongshore variabilityPublication . Celedón, Victoria; Del Río, Laura; Ferreira, Óscar; Costas, Susana; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.High-energy storm events induce hazards that promote damage and destruction of property and infrastructure. Defining high-risk areas is therefore fundamental to prioritise management actions. This work presents the application of an approach to identify hotspots of storm impact at a regional scale (tens to hundreds of kilometres). The Coastal Risk Assessment Framework Phase 1 (CRAF1) is a hotspot selection method based on a coastal index that combines the potential hazard (i.e. overwash and erosion), the exposure (based on land use) and the vulnerability (based on socio-economic data) along each kilometre of the coast to assess the risk level. The suitability of the approach was tested on the southeastern coast of the Gulf of Cadiz (South Spain). CRAF1 was applied considering a morphological worst-case scenario and events of 10/50/100-year return period. The region shows a high overwash and erosion hazard level. Nevertheless, a relatively low number of risk hotspots were identified due to the low level of occupation in the study area. Comparison against available information of previous overwash and erosion events proved the reliability of the method to identify hotspots at a regional scale, even in a coastal area with high alongshore variability (geomorphology, wave exposure and tidal range). The results support the utility of the tool for coastal managers to prioritise and support risk reduction plans. Furthermore, the method presents two aspects that enlarge its potential applicability: (1) it is relatively easy to apply at a regional scale, and (2) it can be updated with new data to test different scenarios (e.g. sea-level rise).
- Modeling of coastal erosion in exposed and groin-protected steep beachesPublication . Garzon, Juan L.; Ferreira, Oscar; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.Process-based models are suitable tools for reproducing storm-driven erosion. However, their performance has been mainly examined on mild-slope sandy beaches and their use on steep beaches still represents a challenge. Here, open-source process-based model XBeach experiments were combined with topographical measurements collected for two storms (16- and 5-year return period) to obtain a reliable model. The model parameters “facua” (parameterized wave asymmetry and skewness sediment transport component), “bermslope” (upslope transport term for semireflective beaches), and “wetslope” (critical avalanching submerged slope) were utilized for calibration and validation. The 16-year storm simulations on an exposed beach revealed that whether bermslope increased and “facua” must be reduced, and vice versa, to properly simulate erosion. Adding bermslope provided excellent results for these storms when using facua and wetslope values close to the recommended values. In a groin-protected site, XBeach was successfully calibrated and validated for the tested storms using these parameters, although with different values. These experiments demonstrated that the appropriate use of these parameters can satisfactorily simulate morphological changes on steep beaches for different hydrodynamic conditions and coastal settings (exposed and groin protected).
- Overwash hazards assessment using a simplified process based approachPublication . Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Costas, Susana; Ferreira, ÓscarCoastal communities are threatened by the impact of severe storms that may cause significant loss or damage of property and life. One of the main processes behind such impacts is the overwash of coastal barriers. In order to estimate the losses associated with a particular event, overwash must be properly parameterized. Here, we propose a novel approach to estimate potential overwash hazards, which includes the associated major processes and crucial parameters. For that purpose it was used the parametrisation of the physical processes developed by Donnelly (2008), and the overwash hazard was related to both flow velocity and flow depth, which are in turn a function of lateral spreading of the flow and percolation. The proposed method requires the selection of a validated run-up formula for the study area; a percolation constant for infiltration; a typical value for the run-up lens; and a storm beach profile. Combining these parameters, the overwash depth and velocity for different return periods can be estimated together with the associated hazards. The advantages of the present approach are: adaptability to any environment where overwash processes are important, time efficiency on evaluating overwash hazards, and the assessment of hotspot areas at a regional scale (tens to hundred kilometres).