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- Backbarrier evolution at a medium-term scalePublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, Paula; Dias, J. A.This study reports the medium-term evolution of a sandy backbarrier and its relation with prevailing wind conditions. Obtained results demonstrated that Ancão backbarrier does not behave as a scale-down version of higher energy fetch-limited or oceanic beaches, being considered as a low-energy beach with extremely low wind-induced wave conditions. Volumetric changes during the three years monitoring were small, and the analysis of low-scale changes was divided into four beach compartment: upper beach, beach face, tidal flat, sand bank. There was no significant correlation between prevailing wind conditions, volume and grain-size variation, neither a marked seasonal pattern. Some wind-induced beach changes were perceptive in the grain size variations, related mostly to aeolian offshore sediment transport. Morphological changes were similar in the upper part of the profile, including upper beach and beach face, with changes mostly related to wind and windwaves energy. The lower part of the profile, which includes the tidal flat and the sand bank, frequently react independently from the upper part of the profile, although, sediment exchange between them was noticed during extreme conditions. The lower part of the profile had larger volumetric variability, without any evident wind dominance. The studied beach revealed high morphologic resilience, yet the overall quantities of sediment transported between 2005 and 2008 has particular relevance in the local coastal management context. Further research is needed to develop a broad-scale model of fetch-limited beaches, including the less energetic settings of the spectra such as backbarrier environments.
- Historic monuments threatened by coastal hazards at Boca do Rio, Algarve, PortugalPublication . Carrasco, A. Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Dias, J. A.The coastal stretch of Boca do Rio, western Algarve, Portugal, is experiencing shoreline retreat. Roman ruins are located along the beach section of the coast, and a 17th-century fort is positioned over the cliff section. Both historic monuments are being destroyed by erosion but need to be protected due to their heritage status. Aerial photograph analysis was used to define the evolution of the coast for the period 1945–2001. Shoreline retreat of 0.3 m/year was measured for the sandy coast and 14 mass movements in the cliff face were identified. Considering the rate and style of shoreline evolution, several types of management scenario were evaluated, with the favored measures being the removal of the Roman ruins to a museum and the relocation of the fort inland.
- Sediment transport measurements with tracers in very low-energy beachesPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, P.; Bertin, X.; Dias, J. A.This study investigates sediment transport at a very low-energy backbarrier beach in southern Portugal, from a spring-to-neap tide period, during fair-weather conditions. Rates and directions of transport were determined based on the application of fluorescent tracer techniques. Wind and currents were collected locally, whereas the dominant small and short-period wind waves were characterized using a morphodynamic modelling system coupling a circulation model, a spectral wave model, and a bottom evolution model, well validated over the study area. For the recorded conditions sediment transport was small and ebb oriented, with daily transport rates below 0.02 m3 day-1. Tidal currents (mainly ebb velocities) were found to be the main causative forcing controlling sediment displacements. Transport rates were higher during spring tides, tending towards very small values at neap tides. Results herein reported points towards the distinction between tracer advection and tracer dispersion in this type of environment. Transport by advection was low as a consequence of the prevailing hydrodynamic conditions (Hs < 0.1 m, and max. current velocity of 0.5 m s-1) and the tracer adjustment to the transport layer, whereas dispersion was relatively high (few metres per day). Tracer techniques allowed distinguishing the broad picture of transport, but revealed the need for refinement in this type of environments (bi-directional forcing by ebb and flood cycles).
- An evolutionary categorisation model for backbarrier environmentsPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Oscar; Davidson, M.; Matias, Ana; Dias, J. A.Shorelines occurring along restricted fetch environments, such as the backsides of barrier islands, are extremely diverse with respect to their morphologic characteristics and evolution. In order to better understand the morphodynamic evolution of backbarriers and the associated implications for entire barrier systems, this study proposes a backbarrier evolutionary categorisation model based on the development of two types of index: backbarrier evolution tendency and backbarrier maturation condition. The proposed characterisation system is applied to the Ria Formosa backbarrier (located in southern Portugal) for the period 1947 to 2001. Cross-shore and longshore backbarrier trends in Ria Formosa suggest a shrinking of the lagoon system as a consequence of a decrease in the coastal length of the backbarrier coastline and a landward displacement of it. Even though some of the backbarriers examined were found to be in an immature state, the results obtained illustrate a maturing trend for the system overall. Barriers in Ria Formosa fall into two main evolutionary categories: backbarrier reduction and backbarrier growth. This means that neither smoothing nor branching has been significant and therefore that backbarrier recent evolution is closely related to barrier coast length. Application of the proposed characterisation to the Ria Formosa case study has helped reveal backbarrier evolutionary trends and therefore should be of use in the management of backbarrier systems.