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Field measurements and hydrodynamic modelling to evaluate the importance of factors controlling overwash

2019-10Journal article Restricted
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dc.contributor.authorMatias, Ana
dc.contributor.authorCarrasco, A.R.
dc.contributor.authorLoureiro, Carlos
dc.contributor.authorMasselink, Gerd
dc.contributor.authorAndriolo, Umberto
dc.contributor.authorMcCall, Robert
dc.contributor.authorFerreira, Oscar
dc.contributor.authorPlomaritis, Theocharis
dc.contributor.authorPacheco, André
dc.contributor.authorGuerreiro, Martha
dc.date.accessioned2019-09-12T12:01:54Z
dc.date.available2019-09-12T12:01:54Z
dc.date.issued2019-10
dc.date.updated2019-09-09T10:23:14Z
dc.description.abstractOverwash hydrodynamic datasets are mixed in quality and scope, being difficult to obtain due to fieldwork experimental limitations. Nevertheless, these measurements are crucial to develop reliable models to predict overwash. Aiming to overcome such limitations, this work presents accurate fieldwork data on overwash hydrodynamics, further exploring it to model overwash on a low-lying barrier island. Fieldwork was undertaken on Barreta Island (Portugal) in December 2013, during neap tides and under energetic conditions, with significant wave height reaching 2.6 m. During approximately 4 h, more than 120 shallow overwash events were measured with a video-camera, a pressure transducer and a current-meter. This high-frequency fieldwork dataset includes runup, overwash number, depth and velocity. Fieldwork data along with information from literature were used to implement XBeach model in non-hydrostatic mode (wave-resolving). The baseline model was tested for six verification cases; and the model was able to predict overwash in five. Based in performance metrics and the verification cases, it was considered that the Barreta baseline overwash model is a reliable tool for the prediction of overwash hydrodynamics. The baseline model was then forced to simulate overwash under different hydrodynamic conditions (waves and lagoon water level) and morpho-sedimentary settings (nearshore topography and beach grain-size), within the characteristic range of values for the study area. According to the results, the order of importance of factors controlling overwash predictability in the study area are: 1st) wave height (more than wave period) can promote overwash 3–4 times more intense than the one recorded during fieldwork; 2nd) nearshore bathymetry, particularly shallow submerged bars, can promote an average decrease of about 30% in overwash; 3rd) grain-size, finer sediment produced an 11% increase in overwash due to reduced infiltration; and 4th) lagoon water level, only negligible differences were evidenced by changes in the lagoon level. This implies that for model predictions to be reliable, accurate wave forecasts are necessary and topo-bathymetric configuration needs to be monitored frequently.pt_PT
dc.description.sponsorshipThis study was supported by RUSH project, PTDC/CTE-GIX/116814/2010 and EVREST project, PTDC/MAR-EST/1031/2014, financed by FCT, Portugal. A. Matias and A. Pacheco were supported by Investigator Programme, IF/00354/2012 and IF/00286/2014, respectively, financed by FCT, Portugal. A.R. Carrasco was supported by SFRH/BPD/88485/2012. Carlos Loureiro is funded by the EU H2020 MSCA research project NEARControl (Grant Agreement No 661342). T. Plomaritis was funded by the EU FP7 research project RISC-KIT (ref. RISC-KIT-GA-2013-603458). R. McCall was funded by the EU FP7 RISC-KIT project and Deltares Strategic Research in the “Hydro-and morphodynamics during extreme events” program (1230002). Umberto Andriolo was supported by the EARTHSYSTEM Doctorate Programme led by Institute Dom Luiz Associate Laboratory at the University of Lisbon (SFRH/BD/52558/2014).pt_PT
dc.description.versioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersionpt_PT
dc.identifier.doi10.1016/j.coastaleng.2019.103523
dc.identifier.otherP-00Q-TNZ
dc.identifier.other2-s2.0-85068958446
dc.identifier.slugcv-prod-675598
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/12756
dc.language.isoengpt_PT
dc.peerreviewedyespt_PT
dc.publisherElsevierpt_PT
dc.relationResilience-Increasing Strategies for Coasts - toolKIT
dc.relationRUSH - From runup to overwash
dc.relation.ispartofCoastal Engineeringen_US
dc.subjectStorm impactspt_PT
dc.subjectHydrodynamicspt_PT
dc.subjectXBeachpt_PT
dc.subjectRunuppt_PT
dc.subjectNearshore topographypt_PT
dc.subjectVideo datapt_PT
dc.titleField measurements and hydrodynamic modelling to evaluate the importance of factors controlling overwashpt_PT
dc.typejournal article
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.awardTitleResilience-Increasing Strategies for Coasts - toolKIT
oaire.awardTitleRUSH - From runup to overwash
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/EC/FP7/603458/EU
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/3599-PPCDT/PTDC%2FCTE-GIX%2F116814%2F2010/PT
oaire.citation.startPage103523pt_PT
oaire.citation.titleCoastal Engineeringpt_PT
oaire.citation.volume152pt_PT
oaire.fundingStreamFP7
oaire.fundingStream3599-PPCDT
person.familyNameMatias
person.familyNameCarrasco
person.familyNameLoureiro
person.familyNameFerreira
person.familyNamePlomaritis
person.familyNamePacheco
person.givenNameAna
person.givenNameA. Rita
person.givenNameCarlos
person.givenNameÓscar
person.givenNameTheocharis A.
person.givenNameAndré
person.identifierR-000-116
person.identifier545203
person.identifier453264
person.identifier.ciencia-id2811-D7C1-1DE2
person.identifier.ciencia-idA31E-1703-4030
person.identifier.ciencia-id011D-31BD-C6B6
person.identifier.ciencia-id1F1C-DF44-94C9
person.identifier.ciencia-idFB1D-6248-EB10
person.identifier.ciencia-id8014-35C4-8806
person.identifier.orcid0000-0003-2090-6291
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-8980-0068
person.identifier.orcid0000-0003-3117-3492
person.identifier.orcid0000-0001-9975-0036
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-9819-0927
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-8340-0629
person.identifier.ridE-9709-2013
person.identifier.ridD-2235-2016
person.identifier.ridU-9863-2018
person.identifier.scopus-author-id56260567900
person.identifier.scopus-author-id15724386100
person.identifier.scopus-author-id23667861200
person.identifier.scopus-author-id22836553200
person.identifier.scopus-author-id55432603300
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100008530
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.nameEuropean Commission
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
rcaap.cv.cienciaid2811-D7C1-1DE2 | Ana Matias
rcaap.rightsrestrictedAccesspt_PT
rcaap.typearticlept_PT
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