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A eficácia e segurança do uso do retinol em produtos cosméticos antienvelhecimento
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O envelhecimento cutâneo é um processo multifatorial influenciado por fatores intrínsecos e extrínsecos, que resultam em alterações estruturais e funcionais visíveis, como rugas, perda de elasticidade, hiperpigmentação e textura irregular. Entre as estratégias cosméticas disponíveis, o retinol e os seus derivados destacam-se pela sua eficácia comprovada na atenuação destes sinais. Esta dissertação apresenta uma revisão sistemática, conduzida segundo as diretrizes PRISMA 2020, com o objetivo de avaliar a eficácia e segurança de produtos cosméticos contendo retinol ou derivados na melhoria dos sinais de envelhecimento facial em adultos. A pesquisa bibliográfica foi realizada na base de dados PubMed, incluindo ensaios clínicos randomizados, controlados e duplamente cegos, com formulações tópicas de uso cosmético. Foram incluídos 8 estudos publicados entre 2006 e 2020, envolvendo 237 participantes, maioritariamente mulheres entre os 30 e 70 anos. As intervenções, com duração de 4 a 24 semanas, utilizaram concentrações de retinol ou derivados entre 0,05% e 0,5%. A maioria dos ensaios demonstrou melhorias significativas na redução de rugas finas, aumento da elasticidade e melhoria da textura cutânea, mesmo com concentrações baixas e uso contínuo. Os efeitos sobre hiperpigmentação foram menos explorados, mas os dados disponíveis indicam benefício. A incidência de efeitos adversos foi geralmente ligeira e transitória, incluindo eritema e descamação, sem eventos graves reportados. Conclui-se que o retinol e os seus derivados, em formulações cosméticas, são eficazes e seguros para a atenuação de sinais de envelhecimento cutâneo, apresentando melhor relação benefício-tolerabilidade.
Skin ageing is a multifactorial process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to visible structural and functional changes such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, hyperpigmentation, and uneven texture. Among available cosmetic strategies, retinol and its derivatives stand out for their proven efficacy in mitigating these signs. This dissertation presents a systematic review, conducted according to PRISMA 2020 guidelines, aimed at assessing the efficacy and safety of cosmetic products containing retinol or derivatives in improving facial skin ageing signs in adults. A bibliographic search was performed in PubMed, including randomized, controlled, double-blind clinical trials using topical cosmetic formulations. Eight studies published between 2006 and 2020 were included, involving 237 participants, mostly women aged 30 to 70 years. Interventions lasted 4 to 24 weeks, with retinol or derivative concentrations ranging from 0.05% to 0.5%. Most trials showed significant improvements in fine wrinkle reduction, increased elasticity, and enhanced skin texture, even at low concentrations with continuous use. Effects on hyperpigmentation were less frequently assessed but available data suggest a benefit. Adverse events were generally mild and transient, including erythema and desquamation, with no serious events reported. In conclusion, retinol and its derivatives in cosmetic formulations are effective and safe for attenuating signs of skin ageing, showing a favourable benefit–tolerability profile, particularly when stabilized or incorporated into controlled-release technologies.
Skin ageing is a multifactorial process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to visible structural and functional changes such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, hyperpigmentation, and uneven texture. Among available cosmetic strategies, retinol and its derivatives stand out for their proven efficacy in mitigating these signs. This dissertation presents a systematic review, conducted according to PRISMA 2020 guidelines, aimed at assessing the efficacy and safety of cosmetic products containing retinol or derivatives in improving facial skin ageing signs in adults. A bibliographic search was performed in PubMed, including randomized, controlled, double-blind clinical trials using topical cosmetic formulations. Eight studies published between 2006 and 2020 were included, involving 237 participants, mostly women aged 30 to 70 years. Interventions lasted 4 to 24 weeks, with retinol or derivative concentrations ranging from 0.05% to 0.5%. Most trials showed significant improvements in fine wrinkle reduction, increased elasticity, and enhanced skin texture, even at low concentrations with continuous use. Effects on hyperpigmentation were less frequently assessed but available data suggest a benefit. Adverse events were generally mild and transient, including erythema and desquamation, with no serious events reported. In conclusion, retinol and its derivatives in cosmetic formulations are effective and safe for attenuating signs of skin ageing, showing a favourable benefit–tolerability profile, particularly when stabilized or incorporated into controlled-release technologies.
Descrição
Palavras-chave
Cosméticos Eficácia Envelhecimento cutâneo Retinol Segurança