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- Managing flood risk in fetch-limited environmentsPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, AnaThere is little unanimity concerning the environmental modifications potentially forced by the acceleration of global climate change in the coming century, or the future actions required to work towards a sustainable development of natural habitats in the coastal zone. A simple framework to assess the potential implications of flooding in fetch-limited coastal environments (with no relevant wave setup), experiencing both coastal and river flooding, was recently developed. It identifies tide, storm surge, sea level rise and river discharge as the main sources of flooding hazards. Hazard maps differentiate distinctive zones of flooding: the constantly flooded zone, the frequently flooded zone, and the infrequently flooded zone. The framework prioritizes site-based local management, and identifies alternative tools for sustainable coastal resources, to face non-desired flood effects. It was applied to a morphologically complex (tidal channels network, salt marshes, dunes) occupied backbarrier coastal stretch located in Culatra Island, South Portugal (max. fetch ~ 4 km). The obtained inundation levels predicted for 1, 10 and 100 year-return periods were 2.02 m, 2.39 m, and 2.84 m above MSL, respectively. The high-, moderate-, and low-risk zones include about 34 m2 , 1,073 m2 and 31,821 m2 of occupied area, respectively. Besides houses, flood impacts also affect other infrastructures (e.g., walkways and recreational structures). Several best practices principles and guidelines were proposed for the three risk zones, namely the adaptation to uses with ‘added value’, which enhances the local ecological values and strengths economic activities. This study contributes to the method validation at a complex morphological area and enriches the understanding about the potential of flood in fetch-limited conditions, praising the perspective of ‘living with climate change’.
- Backbarrier evolution at a medium-term scalePublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, Paula; Dias, J. A.This study reports the medium-term evolution of a sandy backbarrier and its relation with prevailing wind conditions. Obtained results demonstrated that Ancão backbarrier does not behave as a scale-down version of higher energy fetch-limited or oceanic beaches, being considered as a low-energy beach with extremely low wind-induced wave conditions. Volumetric changes during the three years monitoring were small, and the analysis of low-scale changes was divided into four beach compartment: upper beach, beach face, tidal flat, sand bank. There was no significant correlation between prevailing wind conditions, volume and grain-size variation, neither a marked seasonal pattern. Some wind-induced beach changes were perceptive in the grain size variations, related mostly to aeolian offshore sediment transport. Morphological changes were similar in the upper part of the profile, including upper beach and beach face, with changes mostly related to wind and windwaves energy. The lower part of the profile, which includes the tidal flat and the sand bank, frequently react independently from the upper part of the profile, although, sediment exchange between them was noticed during extreme conditions. The lower part of the profile had larger volumetric variability, without any evident wind dominance. The studied beach revealed high morphologic resilience, yet the overall quantities of sediment transported between 2005 and 2008 has particular relevance in the local coastal management context. Further research is needed to develop a broad-scale model of fetch-limited beaches, including the less energetic settings of the spectra such as backbarrier environments.
- Sediment transport measurements with tracers in very low-energy beachesPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, P.; Bertin, X.; Dias, J. A.This study investigates sediment transport at a very low-energy backbarrier beach in southern Portugal, from a spring-to-neap tide period, during fair-weather conditions. Rates and directions of transport were determined based on the application of fluorescent tracer techniques. Wind and currents were collected locally, whereas the dominant small and short-period wind waves were characterized using a morphodynamic modelling system coupling a circulation model, a spectral wave model, and a bottom evolution model, well validated over the study area. For the recorded conditions sediment transport was small and ebb oriented, with daily transport rates below 0.02 m3 day-1. Tidal currents (mainly ebb velocities) were found to be the main causative forcing controlling sediment displacements. Transport rates were higher during spring tides, tending towards very small values at neap tides. Results herein reported points towards the distinction between tracer advection and tracer dispersion in this type of environment. Transport by advection was low as a consequence of the prevailing hydrodynamic conditions (Hs < 0.1 m, and max. current velocity of 0.5 m s-1) and the tracer adjustment to the transport layer, whereas dispersion was relatively high (few metres per day). Tracer techniques allowed distinguishing the broad picture of transport, but revealed the need for refinement in this type of environments (bi-directional forcing by ebb and flood cycles).
- An evolutionary categorisation model for backbarrier environmentsPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Oscar; Davidson, M.; Matias, Ana; Dias, J. A.Shorelines occurring along restricted fetch environments, such as the backsides of barrier islands, are extremely diverse with respect to their morphologic characteristics and evolution. In order to better understand the morphodynamic evolution of backbarriers and the associated implications for entire barrier systems, this study proposes a backbarrier evolutionary categorisation model based on the development of two types of index: backbarrier evolution tendency and backbarrier maturation condition. The proposed characterisation system is applied to the Ria Formosa backbarrier (located in southern Portugal) for the period 1947 to 2001. Cross-shore and longshore backbarrier trends in Ria Formosa suggest a shrinking of the lagoon system as a consequence of a decrease in the coastal length of the backbarrier coastline and a landward displacement of it. Even though some of the backbarriers examined were found to be in an immature state, the results obtained illustrate a maturing trend for the system overall. Barriers in Ria Formosa fall into two main evolutionary categories: backbarrier reduction and backbarrier growth. This means that neither smoothing nor branching has been significant and therefore that backbarrier recent evolution is closely related to barrier coast length. Application of the proposed characterisation to the Ria Formosa case study has helped reveal backbarrier evolutionary trends and therefore should be of use in the management of backbarrier systems.
- Management measures for ancient settlements threatened by coastal hazards at Boca do Rio, Algarve, PortugalPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Dias, João AlveirinhoCoastal areas are dynamic by nature, with physical changes occurring over various time scales. When these changes manifest themselves as a landward movement of the shoreline occurring on human time scales, the quantification of erosion rates becomes important (Moore and Griggs, 2002). The evolution of coastal retreat results from several relationships between external and local processes, with many variables potentially affecting the rate and manner of retreat. Currently, the Portuguese coastal zone is strongly affected by coastal erosion in association with an important sedimentary deficiency, which was initiated around the beginning of the 20th century, and became strongly enhanced after the 1930s-1940s (Dias and Neal, 1992). At present, shoreline retreat rates reach the order of a few meters per year in some parts of the Portuguese coastline (Dias and Neal, 1992). A decrease in fluvial sediment transport and a continuing rise in sea level are two of the main causes of coastal erosion not only in Portugal, but also in other parts of the world. Over shorter timescales, storms are also able to cause coastal retreat. Such retreat is only reversible on a human scale (years to decades) if sediment starvation is naturally or artificially stopped (e.g., by beach nourishment or dune building) (Carter, 1988). Changes in storm patterns and incident wave climates may result in beach realignments and higher rates of foreshore change.
- Flood hazard assessment and management of fetch-limited coastal environmentsPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Freire, P.Flooding is a significant environmental threat that can cause loss of human life, damage to infrastructure, disruption to economic activity, and decline in ecological resources in coastal areas. This paper presents a framework for assessing the potential implications of floods in fetch-limited coastal environments (with no significant wave setup), focused on hazard mapping and risk analysis. Hazard maps are based on defined return periods and risk estimates are determined by computing the extent of affected occupied and ecological areas lying below water levels associated with the return periods. For management purposes, this study chooses the adaptive management approach as the most feasible to improve local economies and mitigate the loss of natural areas, and identifies/recommends specific types of occupation and activity for each flood hazard zone. The proposed framework was applied to a low-energy fetch-limited beach, Ancão Peninsula backbarrier, located in the Ria Formosa barrier system (southern Portugal). Inundation levels predicted for 1-, 10-, and 100-year return periods were 2.02 m, 2.39 m, and 2.84 m above MSL (mean sea level), respectively. On this basis, flood impacts were found to be important in occupied areas, generating physical damage to residences and infrastructure. Ecological impacts of floods affected sub-aerial species inhabiting dunes. Several management options deriving from the framework’s application were recommended for the Ancão Peninsula.
- Nearshore and foreshore influence on overwash of a barrier islandPublication . Matias, Ana; Carrasco, Ana Rita; Loureiro, C.; Almeida, Sílvia; Ferreira, ÓscarAccurate prediction of the occurrence and morphological consequences of overwash are important for coastal flood risk assessment and management. A number of morphological and oceanographic factors controlling overwash have been identified by several authors, including nearshore bathymetry. This work intends to identify alongshore variations in storm impact and evaluate the role of sub-aerial and submerged morphological variations in overwash occurrence. For this study, 24 cross-shore topo-bathymetric profiles were set on Barreta Island (Ria Formosa barrier island system, Portugal), extending from the nearshore to the lagoon level on the island backbarrier. Pre- and post-overwash surveys were made between August 2012 and April 2013. Offshore wave characteristics were obtained during overwash events including offshore significant wave height (Hs), peak period and wave direction. Wave propagation and wave parameters at breaking were obtained from SWAN model simulations. During the study period, overwash occurred both under storm conditions (e.g., Hs = 3.8 m) and non-storm conditions (e.g., Hs = 0.8 m), the latter coincident with spring high-tide. Overwash water intrusion distance across the barrier varied alongshore between 0 m (no overwash) and 40 m (reaching lagoon waters). Beach morphology was spatially variable, and changeable from one overwash episode to the next. Important morphological variations of the barrier include modification of barrier crest elevation, beach slope, and presence of swash bars in the vicinity of Ancão Inlet. Predictions of overwash occurrence were made by means of the computation of the Overwash Potential (OP), defined as the difference between the wave runup and the barrier elevation. Several runup equations were tested, and the results of obtained OP were compared to the observations of actual overwash occurrence to determine the most reliable approach. The selected predictor provided an accuracy of 88% for the identification of the locations where overwash processes occurred along the barrier. The predictions were variable alongshore due to variations in breaking waves and beach slope, which in turn are related to the existence of nearshore bars, associated with the presence of the updrift Ancão Inlet. This study proves that nearshore and foreshore morphologies have a major impact on the longshore variation of overwash distribution.
- Short-term sediment transport at a backbarrier beachPublication . Carrasco, Ana Rita; Ferreira, Óscar; Matias, Ana; Pacheco, André; Freire, PaulaThis article defines short-term (tidal cycle) sediment-transport patterns at a backbarrier beach based on detailed field studies. Fieldwork was planned to record nonstorm, spring tide conditions that enable the definition of background sediment dynamics at the study area. The experiment was set at two beach morphologies: beach face and sandbank. Current meters were deployed at both sites. Fluorescent tracer techniques were applied to determine rates and direction of transport. Topographic surveys and sediment sampling were undertaken. During the experiment, limited tracer displacement and small morphological changes occurred. The low magnitude changes are representative of predominant, low-energy hydrodynamic conditions. Sediment transport was primarily longshore orientated and dependent on the velocity of tidal currents. Tidal currents had the potential for sediment transport only during a short period of the tidal cycle and had higher velocities during ebb, which results in a net sediment transport orientated towards the nearby inlet. It is suggested that there is dependence on sediment transport rate at the study site and on the variability of tidal currents, which are greatly influenced by the distance to, and conditions of, the nearby Ancão Inlet.