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Research Project
Morphological Impacts and COastal Risks induced by Extreme storm events
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Publications
Variability in storm climate along the Gulf of Cadiz: the role of large scale atmospheric forcing and implications to coastal hazards
Publication . Plomaritis, Theocharis; Benavente, Javier; Laiz, Irene; Del Río, Laura
In the context of increased coastal hazards due
to variability in storminess patterns, the danger of coastal
damages and/or morphological changes is related to the
sum of sea level conditions, storm surge, maximum wave
height and run up values. In order to better understand the
physical processes that cause the variability of the above
parameters a 44 years reanalysis record (HIPOCAS) was
used. The HIPOCAS time-series was validated with real
wave and sea-level data using linear and vector correlation
methods. In the present work changes in the magnitude,
duration, frequency and approach direction of the Atlantic
storms over the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Iberian Peninsula)
were identified by computing various storm characteristics
such as maximum wave height, total energy per storm wave
direction and storm duration. The obtained time-series were
compared with large-scale atmospheric indices such as the
North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and the East Atlantic pattern.
The results show a good correlation between negative
NAO values and increased storminess over the entire Gulf of Cadiz. Furthermore, negative NAO values were correlated
with high residual sea level values. Finally, a joint
probability analysis of storm and sea level analysis resulted
in increased probabilities of the two events happening at
the same time indicating higher vulnerability of the coast
and increased coastal risks. The above results were compared
with coastal inundation events that took place over
the last winter seasons in the province of Cadiz.
Storm impacts along European coastlines. Part 1: The joint effort of the MICORE and ConHaz Projects
Publication . Ciavola, Paolo; Ferreira, Óscar; Haerens, Piet; Van Koningsveld, Mark; Armaroli, Clara; Lequeux, Quentin
The current paper discusses the topic of marine storm impact along European coastlines,
presenting results from two FP7 Projects currently focusing on this topic, one working on the
physical aspects of the problem (MICORE) and the other one on the socio-economic
implications (ConHaz).
The MICORE Project aims to provide on-line predictions of storm-related physical
hazards (hydrodynamic as well as morphodynamic). The ConHaz Project addresses the
socio-economic implications should these (or other) hazards actually materialize. Together
these projects aim to deliver crucial information for emergency response efforts, while
realizing the practical limitations for information processing and dissemination during
crisis situations.
The MICORE Project has developed and demonstrated on-line tools for reliable predictions
of the morphological impact of marine storm events in support of civil protection
mitigation strategies. The project specifically targeted the development of early warning
and information systems to support short term emergency response in case of an extreme
storm event. The current paper discusses in detail the outcome of an activity of databasing
historical storm data. No clear changes in storminess were observed, except for some storm
proxies (e.g. surges) and only at some locations (e.g. northern Adriatic, southern Baltic, etc.).
The ConHaz Project undertook a desktop study of the methods normally used for
evaluating the impact of marine storms and the associated coastal hazards considering
direct costs, costs due to disruption of production processes, indirect costs, intangible costs,
and costs of adaptation and mitigation measures. Several methods for cost estimation were
reviewed. From the review it emerged that normally end-users only evaluate direct costs
after the storms, while the cost of adaptation and mitigation measures is only done
strategically in the context of Integrated Coastal Zone Management plans. As there is no
standardized method for cost evaluations in this field, it is suggested that clear guidelines
should be produced on the basis of simplicity for use by end-users. The integration between
historical databases of the physical parameters of storms and detailed cost evaluation
information would support the development of a knowledge background in end-users and
justify the development of adaptation strategies.
Beach erosion and recovery during consecutive storms at a steep-sloping, meso-tidal beach
Publication . Vousdoukas, Michalis; Almeida, Luis Pedro; Ferreira, Óscar
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso-tidal Faro Beach
(south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub-aerial beach profile was monitored
through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics,
and wave run-up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained
from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological
state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide
and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of
steep-sloping beaches, since sub-aerial beach volume reductions up to 30m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2
Storm impacts along European coastlines. Part 2: lessons learned from the MICORE project
Publication . Ciavola, Paolo; Ferreira, Óscar; Haerens, Piet; Van Koningsveld, Mark; Armaroli, Clara
This paper describes the MICORE approach to quantify for nine field sites the crucial storm
related physical hazards (hydrodynamic as well as morphodynamic) in support of early
warning efforts and emergency response.
As a first step historical storms that had a significant morphological impact on a
representative number of sensitive European coastal stretches were reviewed and analysed
in order to understand storm related morphological changes and how often they occur
around Europe. Next, an on-line storm prediction system was set up to enable prediction of
storm related hydro- and morphodynamic impacts. The system makes use of existing offthe-
shelf models as well as a new open-source morphological model. To validate the models
at least one year of fieldwork was done at nine pilot sites. The data was safeguarded and
stored for future use in an open database that conforms to the OpenEarth protocols.
To translate quantitative model results to useful information for Civil Protection agencies
the Frame of Reference approach (Van Koningsveld et al., 2005, 2007) was used to derive
Storm Impact Indicators (SIIs) for relevant decision makers. The acquired knowledge is
expected to be directly transferred to the civil society trough partnerships with end-users at
the end of the MICORE project.
Coastal storm risk assessment in Europe: examples from 9 study sites
Publication . Ferreira, Óscar; Ciavola, P.; Armaroli, C.; Balouin, Y.; Benavente, J.; Del Río, L.; Deserti, M.; Esteves, L. S.; Furmanczyk, K.; Haerens, P.; Matias, Ana; Perini, L.; Taborda, R.; Terefenko, P.; Trifo, E.
To assess coastal storm risks thi paper compares existing hazards, associated risks, coastal management plans, and civil protection schemes from nine European countries.
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Funding agency
European Commission
Funding programme
FP7
Funding Award Number
202798