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Evaluating the effects of water circulation on the modeling of wave propagation on the Southern coast of the Iberian Peninsula

dc.contributor.authorMills, Lara
dc.contributor.authorGarzon, Juan L.
dc.contributor.authorMartins, Flávio
dc.date.accessioned2026-01-04T21:17:16Z
dc.date.available2026-01-04T21:17:16Z
dc.date.issued2025-11-25
dc.description.abstractSimulating wave propagation is crucial for forecasting processes offshore and near the coast. Many operational wave models consider only atmospheric and wave forcing as boundary conditions. However, waves and currents are interdependent, and simulating their interaction is crucial for accurately representing wave propagation. This study examines the influences of the current velocity and water levels on waves on the southern coast of the Iberian Peninsula. These forcing elements were simulated by a 3D hydrodynamic model (MOHID) and included in the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model. The standalone SWAN model was calibrated and validated by comparing results of significant wave height, mean wave direction, and peak period with in situ observations. Then, the effects of water levels and current velocities on wave propagation were assessed by forcing the SWAN model with water levels as well as current velocities extracted from different depths: the surface layer and depth-averaged velocities from the surface down to 10 m, 20 m, and the full water column. The results revealed that incorporating the current velocity and water levels from MOHID into the SWAN model reduced the root mean square error (RMSE) between 1.6% and 27.6%. The most accurate results were achieved with model runs that included both the current velocity from the surface layer and water levels. Opposing currents resulted in increases in wave height, whereas following currents resulted in decreases in wave height. This work presents novel results on the effects of hydrodynamics on wave propagation along the southern coast of the Iberian Peninsula, a region of key importance for the blue economy.eng
dc.description.sponsorshipThis research was funded by the Portuguese Foundation of Science and Technology (FCT) to CIMA (grant number UID/00350/2025 CIMA: https://doi.org/10.54499/UID/00350/2025) and ARNET (grant number LA/P/0069/2020); CEEC INST. (10.54499/CEECINST/00146/2018/CP1493/CT0012); the EU-H2020 NAUTILOS project (grant number 101000825), and the EU-HEUROPE THETIDA project (grant number 101095253). Data Availability Statement
dc.identifier.doi10.3390/jmse13122246
dc.identifier.issn2077-1312
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/28045
dc.language.isoeng
dc.peerreviewedyes
dc.publisherMDPI
dc.relationCentre for Marine and Environmental Research
dc.relationAquatic Research Infrastructure Network
dc.relationNew Approach to Underwater Technologies for Innovative, Low-cost Ocean obServation
dc.relation.ispartofJournal of Marine Science and Engineering
dc.rights.urihttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
dc.subjectWave modeling
dc.subjectWave–current interaction
dc.subjectSWAN
dc.subjectMOHID
dc.subjectSW Iberia
dc.titleEvaluating the effects of water circulation on the modeling of wave propagation on the Southern coast of the Iberian Peninsulaeng
dc.typejournal article
dspace.entity.typePublication
oaire.awardTitleCentre for Marine and Environmental Research
oaire.awardTitleAquatic Research Infrastructure Network
oaire.awardTitleNew Approach to Underwater Technologies for Innovative, Low-cost Ocean obServation
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/UID%2FMAR%2F00350%2F2019/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/FCT/6817 - DCRRNI ID/LA%2FP%2F0069%2F2020/PT
oaire.awardURIinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/EC/H2020/101000825/EU
oaire.citation.issue12
oaire.citation.startPage2246
oaire.citation.titleJournal of Marine Science and Engineering
oaire.citation.volume13
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStream6817 - DCRRNI ID
oaire.fundingStreamH2020
oaire.versionhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
person.familyNameMills
person.familyNameGarzon
person.familyNameMartins
person.givenNameLara
person.givenNameJuan L.
person.givenNameFlávio
person.identifier.ciencia-id9A10-264B-EADE
person.identifier.ciencia-idCB1A-D085-6C56
person.identifier.ciencia-id6711-E990-FFD9
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-0730-9700
person.identifier.orcid0000-0001-7641-4144
person.identifier.orcid0000-0002-9863-6255
person.identifier.ridU-2673-2018
person.identifier.scopus-author-id7006504350
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100001871
project.funder.identifierhttp://doi.org/10.13039/501100008530
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameFundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
project.funder.nameEuropean Commission
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