Evaluating the effects of water circulation on the modeling of wave propagation on the Southern coast of the Iberian Peninsula

Mills, Lara; Garzon, Juan L.; Martins, Flávio

http://hdl.handle.net/10400.1/28045

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Authors

Mills, Lara

Garzon, Juan L.

Martins, Flávio

Abstract(s)

Simulating wave propagation is crucial for forecasting processes offshore and near the coast. Many operational wave models consider only atmospheric and wave forcing as boundary conditions. However, waves and currents are interdependent, and simulating their interaction is crucial for accurately representing wave propagation. This study examines the influences of the current velocity and water levels on waves on the southern coast of the Iberian Peninsula. These forcing elements were simulated by a 3D hydrodynamic model (MOHID) and included in the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model. The standalone SWAN model was calibrated and validated by comparing results of significant wave height, mean wave direction, and peak period with in situ observations. Then, the effects of water levels and current velocities on wave propagation were assessed by forcing the SWAN model with water levels as well as current velocities extracted from different depths: the surface layer and depth-averaged velocities from the surface down to 10 m, 20 m, and the full water column. The results revealed that incorporating the current velocity and water levels from MOHID into the SWAN model reduced the root mean square error (RMSE) between 1.6% and 27.6%. The most accurate results were achieved with model runs that included both the current velocity from the surface layer and water levels. Opposing currents resulted in increases in wave height, whereas following currents resulted in decreases in wave height. This work presents novel results on the effects of hydrodynamics on wave propagation along the southern coast of the Iberian Peninsula, a region of key importance for the blue economy.