Browsing by Author "Kombiadou, Katerina"
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- Barrier island resilience assessment: Applying the ecological principles to geomorphological dataPublication . Kombiadou, Katerina; Matias, Ana; Costas, Susana; Carrasco, A. Rita; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.; Ferreira, ÓscarApplying the ecological resilience principles to barrier island geomorphological evolution requires approaches that perceive and interpret resilience far from predefined barrier characteristics and static views. Accepting that barrier islands, like all natural systems, are dynamic and adaptively changing in response to external disturbances is fundamental to the formulated approach. To this aim, geomorphological units and dimensions were used to describe barrier island stability landscape as an actively shifting ‘topography’, reshaping in response to exogenous events and in relation to intrinsic properties. The structure of the subaerial barrier was characterised using the environmental units of Beach, Dune and Marsh (or BDM), where different combinations of BDM structure define distinct barrier stable states, under a simplified framework that is applicable over a wide range of barrier structures. The methodology is based on reconstructing resilience trajectories of barrier islands through identifying the distinct BDM states and related shifts (thresholds crossed) and assessing resilience dimensions (latitude, resistance and precariousness defined as barrier width and height and proximity to mainland, respectively) that, jointly, define the shape of the stability domain. The approach was applied to the Ria Formosa barrier island system (S. Portugal), using multi-decadal geomorphological data and gradually decreasing spatial discretisation, passing from individual barrier transects to sectors and to entire barriers. The joint evolution of two inland-migrating barriers (Cabanas Island and Cacela Peninsula) was used as an exemplar of adaptive capacity in barrier geomorphic change and, therefore, of resilient response to external pressures. Resilience pathways showed that the Ria Formosa barriers have been resilient over the studied timeframe, with a tendency for maintaining or increasing BDM structural complexity. In general, the stability domain tends to shift from low latitude and high resistance forms (narrow-deep basins of attraction) in the west part of the barrier chain, to higher latitudes and lower resistance ones (wide-shallow basins) towards the east. Precariousness peaks near the edges of the system (low lagoon width) and minimises towards the central part (most detached barriers). Scaling issues regarding smoothing of longshore variability and potential consequences on masking thresholds and critical dimensions are highlighted and discussed, along with the key role of the meaning of specified resilience (of what?) in the assessment. The methodology is a novel approach, easily transferable to different systems and spatiotemporal scales of analysis, representing a step forward in interpreting and assessing barrier island resilience.
- Bridging the gap between resilience and geomorphology of complex coastal systemsPublication . Kombiadou, Katerina; Costas, Susana; Carrasco, A. Rita; Plomaritis, Theocharis; Ferreira, Oscar; Matias, AnaResilience has been used over a wide range of scientific fields and often ambiguously, causing confusion over terminology and concepts and giving rise to distinct interpretations and misconceptions, even within the same scientific discipline. Starting by providing clarifications and definitions of the main terminology and key principles of ecological resilience theory, we pass on to expressing them through geomorphic dimensions of barrier islands. Three distinct environments (beach, dune, marsh) are proposed as the panarchical levels of analysis, along with potential feedbacks between them and geomorphic dimensions that can express the changes of the stability landscape. Morphological changes induced by storms and subsequent recovery are transferred to stability landscapes, over a range of storm impacts and recovery. We postulate that postperturbation recovery should not be restricted to regaining pre-disturbance barrier dimensions, but should be viewed in terms of reorganisation and adaptation, accounting for maintaining the existence of functions, or the ability of the system to regain them. The proposed scheme and dimensions are tested using geomorphological data from barrier response to distinct disturbances, over different temporal scales that range from event to multi-decadal ones. The case of a barrier island migrating landwards is conceptualised in terms of alternative states and thresholds arising during the process and related phases and changes to the adaptive cycle. The methodology and approach presented is a step towards more holistic views of geomorphic systems’ resilience that we hope will contribute to furthering interdisciplinary understanding and cooperation in the area of sustainability and resilience of natural systems.
- Coastal ridge constructive processes at a multi‐decadal scale in Barreta Island (southern Portugal)Publication . Herrero, Xabier; Costas, Susana; Kombiadou, KaterinaMultiple ridges across prograding coasts may display variable geometries, commonly expressed through varying elevations. Changes in ridge elevation have been traditionally related to the occurrence of fluctuating progradation rates, which might, in turn, be driven by shifting environmental conditions. Here, we explore the geometry and growth mechanisms of multiple ridges, generated at Barreta Island (Ria Formosa, southern Portugal), as a consequence of the rapid progradation of the island over the last 70 years, following the artificial fixation of the downdrift Faro-Olhao inlet with jetties in 1955. The variability in the morphology of these features was analysed in combination with available wind and wave data, in order to better distinguish growth mechanisms and understand the main parameters determining the final geometry of the observed ridges. The results suggest that (1) most of the identified ridges fall in the beach ridge classification, as they have been mostly built by marine processes, and (2) the parameters derived from, or closely related to wave climate variability (e.g. progradation rates, storm occurrence) can jointly explain most of the observed morphological changes, while aeolian processes played a secondary role. Indeed, ridge geometry appears mainly controlled by progradation rates, with higher ridges associated with lower progradation rates. Progradation rate, in turn, is mostly related to longshore wave power, storminess, and the occurrence storm groups. Yet, the final configuration of ridges can also be affected by runup levels and onshore winds. Therefore, establishing the relation between ridge geometry and wave climate is not a straightforward task, because of the complex processes and interactions that control coastal morphodynamics.
- Coastal ridge constructive processes at a multi-decadal scale in Barreta Island (southern Portugal)Publication . Herrero, Xabier; Costas, Susana; Kombiadou, KaterinaMultiple ridges across prograding coasts may display variable geometries, commonly expressed through varying elevations. Changes in ridge elevation have been traditionally related to the occurrence of fluctuating progradation rates, which might, in turn, be driven by shifting environmental conditions. Here, we explore the geometry and growth mechanisms of multiple ridges, generated at Barreta Island (Ria Formosa, southern Portugal), as a consequence of the rapid progradation of the island over the last 70 years, following the artificial fixation of the downdrift Faro-Olhao inlet with jetties in 1955. The variability in the morphology of these features was analysed in combination with available wind and wave data, in order to better distinguish growth mechanisms and understand the main parameters determining the final geometry of the observed ridges. The results suggest that (1) most of the identified ridges fall in the beach ridge classification, as they have been mostly built by marine processes, and (2) the parameters derived from, or closely related to wave climate variability (e.g. progradation rates, storm occurrence) can jointly explain most of the observed morphological changes, while aeolian processes played a secondary role. Indeed, ridge geometry appears mainly controlled by progradation rates, with higher ridges associated with lower progradation rates. Progradation rate, in turn, is mostly related to longshore wave power, storminess, and the occurrence storm groups. Yet, the final configuration of ridges can also be affected by runup levels and onshore winds. Therefore, establishing the relation between ridge geometry and wave climate is not a straightforward task, because of the complex processes and interactions that control coastal morphodynamics. (c) 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
- Ecogeomorphic response of a coastal dune in southern Portugal regulated by extrinsic factorsPublication . Costas, Susana; Gallego-Fernández, Juan B.; Bon de Sousa, Luísa; Kombiadou, KaterinaCoastal dunes are complex landforms whose morphology results from various interactions between biotic and abiotic factors. Here, we explore the longshore variability of the morphological features, plant community dis-tribution and accumulation patterns of a dune segment (1.4 km-long) located at the downdrift end of a sandy peninsula in the Ria Formosa, Portugal. To understand the main drivers of the observed variability and the implications for dune morphological response, this information was combined with recent multidecadal shore-line evolution data. The integrated results document significant differences in dune morphology, sedimentation patterns and plant zonation, with two distinct dune configurations or states identified in close proximity. One (western sector) shows a narrower dune system, vegetation cover characterised by pioneer species with low densities, and squeezed plant zonation. Conversely, the other (eastern sector) presents a wider dune system with a new foredune, a more developed plant zonation and relatively high vegetation density. Both states could be partially explained by the recent shoreline trends and inlet shifts, with stable to retreating trends in the western sector and shoreline progradation in the eastern one. Plant zonation and accumulation patterns suggest that the dune along the retreating sector is in a cycle of inland migration, encouraged by the reduced accommodation space and the low retention capacity of the vegetation across the dune stoss. Alternatively, observations along the prograding sector suggest that the greater accommodation space and the stabilising feedback between vegetation and topography promoted the seaward progradation of the system and the development of an incipient foredune. Outcomes support the importance of biogeomorphic feedbacks for the dune configuration, but they also evidence that the role of vegetation within the feedback is primarily regulated by physical factors that ultimately promote or inhibit vegetation effects on dune topograph
- Exploring controls on coastal dune growth through a simplified modelPublication . Kombiadou, Katerina; Costas, Susana; Roelvink, DanoProcess-based morphodynamic models can be useful in understanding coastal dune responses to disturbances, as well as possible evolutionary patterns. To this aim, we employ Duna, a simplified 1D morphodynamic model, to assess the influence of dune morphology (height and slope) on sand transfer and deposition across the dune profile for different beach widths and wind incidence angles through idealized experiments. Simulations of real conditions show good model performance, both in wind flow reproduction and in topographic change along the dune profiles tested. The idealized experiments show that wind speed increases and sand accumulation decreases logarithmically with dune height and linearly with stoss slope along the dune profile. Fetch and cosine transport limiting parameters are reflected in the sand accumulated windwards from the toe, while sand transfer to the dune appears controlled by multiple factors; the higher the dune and/or the narrower the beach, the likelier that maximum accumulation occurs under oblique winds. Results point to two different types of evolution for high dunes. Either the vegetation is dense enough to maintain the stoss position, in which case vertical growth near-ceases and seaward progradation is promoted, or the stoss is eroded and landward retreat dominates, in which case sand transfer to the crest and lee continues as a mixture of low input from the beach and recycled sand from the stoss. Coastal dunes are sensitive ecosystems whose survival depends on their adaption to changing conditions. Thus, it is important to understand how dune characteristics (i.e., shape, vegetation type, and cover) and prevailing conditions (i.e., wind speed and direction, beach width) determine where and when sand is deposited onto the dune, promoting growth. This is the result of a complex balance between winds that bring sand to the dune from the adjacent beach (main sand provider), the dune topography (decelerating winds near the dune toe and accelerating them along the slope, up to the dune crest) and dune plants (slowing winds down in their vicinity and trapping wind-blown sand). The main controls on these complex interactions have been incorporated into the Duna model for aeolian sand transport. After tuning parameters and verifying that simulated results are accurate, Duna is used to assess the impacts of dune shape (height and slope), beach width, vegetation coverage and wind angles to wind flow and topographic changes on the dune. Results show that both wind speed and sand accumulation vary logarithmically with dune height and linearly with slope. The simulated sand distribution along the dune is used as a basis to draw generalized dune growth patterns. Duna morphodynamic model is calibrated and validated against Computational Fluid Dynamics model results and field dataThe influence of dune shape (height and slope), wind incidence, vegetation density and beach width on dune growth is investigatedDune height and plant cover are the main factors controlling accumulation patterns, sand recycling and vertical growth
- Exploring foredune growth capacity in a coarse sandy beachPublication . Costas, Susana; Bon de Sousa, Luísa; Kombiadou, Katerina; Ferreira, Oscar; Plomaritis, Theocharis A.Dunes are key elements of coastal landscapes in almost every latitude. They host high levels of biodiversity and provide important benefits to society; e.g. protection against floods and erosion, or recreation. Coastal dune growth is constrained by intrinsic factors, which are critical when managing dune systems or choosing coastal dune restoration as an alternative green solution for coastal protection. Here, the evolution of a beach-dune system, characterized by a reflective coarse sandy beach and low dunes, is explored to identify the favourable and optimal conditions for dune growth in these settings. Dune growth capacity is evaluated by analysing the topographical changes observed along a coastal dune over two different temporal scales (interannual and event scale) and comparing the observations with theoretical approximations of sediment transport potentials. Observations and predictions over interannual scale document that (1) temporal variability in external conditions (wind regime) and spatial variability of estimated wind fetch length, alone, fail to explain alongshore dune growth patterns and (2) optimal conditions for dune growth occur when storms (strong winds) impact the study area, jointly with low runup levels, at zones of shoreline progradation and absence of direct human influence. Conversely, lowest values of dune accumulation are associated with areas where shoreline retreat was documented. Observations from event timescales suggest that sediment transport potential can be reached over zones with no significant signs of beach erosion, if runup levels remain low and the event duration is shorter than the time scale of sand surface depletion within the upper beach.
- Foredune initiation and early development through biophysical interactionsPublication . Costas, Susana; Serrão Bon de Sousa, Maria Luísa; Gallego-Fernández, Juan B.; Hesp, Patrick; Kombiadou, KaterinaCoastal dunes result from complex interactions between sand transport, topography and vegetation. However, uncertainty still persists due to limited quantitative analyses, integrating plant distribution and morphologic changes. This study aims to assess the initiation and maintenance of feedback processes by analysing the early development stages of incipient foredunes, combining data on the evolution of the plant cover and communities and dune morphology. Over three years, the monitoring of a newly formed dune (1 ha plot) reveals the progressive plant colonisation and the episodic accumulation of sand around vegetated areas controlled by sediment availability. Distinct colonisation rates were observed, influenced by inherited marine conditions, namely topography and presence of beach wrack. Berm-ridges provided elevations above the critical threshold for plant colonisation and surface roughness, aiding sediment accumulation. Beach wrack above this threshold led to rapid expansion and higher plant concentration. In the initial stages, vegetation cover significantly influenced sediment accumulation patterns, with higher accumulation around areas with high plant cover and low slopes or around areas with sparse vegetation but milder slopes. As the dune system matured and complexity grew, the link between vegetation cover and accumulation became nonlinear. Mid to low coverages (5 -30 %) retained most of the observed accumulation, especially when coupled with steep slopes, resulting from positive feedbacks between vegetation, topography and sand transport. As foredune developed, vegetation cover and diversity increased while inherited morphologies grew vertically, explaining the emergence of dune ridge morphological types. Flat surfaces lacking wrack materials experienced a three-year delay in colonisation and sand accumulation, leading to the formation of terrace -type incipient foredunes. These observations underline feedback processes during the early stages of dune formation, with physical feedbacks primarily driving initiation and biophysical feedbacks prevailing in subsequent colonisation stages.
- Impacts of human interventions on the evolution of the Ria Formosa barrier island system (S. Portugal)Publication . Kombiadou, Katerina; Matias, Ana; Ferreira, Oscar; Carrasco, A. Rita; Costas, Susana; Plomaritis, TheocharisHuman interventions on sandy barriers disturb natural barrier dynamics, to the extent of having become key forces in modifying geomorphological evolution. This work identifies natural and human-induced drivers and analyses their importance to the multi-decadal evolution of the Ria Formosa barrier island system, in South Portugal. Aerial photographs from the last six decades and historical maps are used to assess changes in cross-shore rates, morphological characteristics (barrier and dune widths, inlet morphology and migration) and barrier areas, through systematic methods that can be easily transferred to other barrier systems. Interventions, and especially hard engineering ones (jetties, inlet stabilisations), affected barrier evolution trends. Shore-perpendicular works increased shoreline progradation updrift and initiated coastal retreat downdrift, with strongest erosive impacts along the edges of the system. Inlet stabilisations changed tidal inlet hydrodynamics and initiated ebb-shoal attachment to the barriers on either side of a non-migrating inlet that experienced loss of tidal prism. This shoal attachment was the main factor for the increase in total barrier area of Ria Formosa during the 60 years of analysis. Barrier growth after 2005 was slower, which could indicate that the system is reaching morphodynamic stability.
- Operational platform for metocean forecasts in Thermaikos Gulf (Aegean Sea, Greece)Publication . Androulidakis, Yannis; Makris, Christos; Kolovoyiannis, Vassilis; Kombiadou, Katerina; Krestenitis, Yannis; Kartsios, Stergios; Pytharoulis, Ioannis; Baltikas, Vasilis; Mallios, ZisisThermaikos Gulf, located in the northeastern Mediterranean Sea, faces significant anthropogenic pressures and natural hazards, requiring reliable metocean forecasts for weather, ocean circulation, sea levels, waves, and hazard predictions, including pollutant transport, coastal floods, and freshwater discharges. The Wave4Us operational platform addresses these needs by providing high-resolution and specialised forecasts, accessible to local authorities, researchers, and the public. Additionally, on-demand predictions for marine pollution, coastal inundation, and heatwaves offer real-time insights to emergency responders and coastal authorities during hazardous events. This study presents the platform’s structure, modelling advancements, and predictive skill for specific hazards. Forecast efficiency is evaluated against satellite and field observations: (i) the simulated oil spill spreading is verified by satellite data; (ii) the modelled freshwater discharges are validated against field measurements (high correlation, RMSE < 10%); (iii) a pronounced river plume spreading is confirmed by ocean/tracer simulations and satellite imagery; (iv) the prediction of sea level, wave conditions, and coastal flooding under a severe low-pressure system is validated against measurements and documented events; (v) the marine heatwave predictions is confirmed by comparing simulated and satellite sea temperatures (error < 1%). These evaluations demonstrate the platform’s reliability in forecasting key environmental risks, aiding decision-making and response efforts in the Thermaikos Gulf region.