Browsing by Author "Plomaritis, Theocharis"
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- Bridging the gap between resilience and geomorphology of complex coastal systemsPublication . Kombiadou, Katerina; Costas, Susana; Carrasco, A. Rita; Plomaritis, Theocharis; Ferreira, Oscar; Matias, AnaResilience has been used over a wide range of scientific fields and often ambiguously, causing confusion over terminology and concepts and giving rise to distinct interpretations and misconceptions, even within the same scientific discipline. Starting by providing clarifications and definitions of the main terminology and key principles of ecological resilience theory, we pass on to expressing them through geomorphic dimensions of barrier islands. Three distinct environments (beach, dune, marsh) are proposed as the panarchical levels of analysis, along with potential feedbacks between them and geomorphic dimensions that can express the changes of the stability landscape. Morphological changes induced by storms and subsequent recovery are transferred to stability landscapes, over a range of storm impacts and recovery. We postulate that postperturbation recovery should not be restricted to regaining pre-disturbance barrier dimensions, but should be viewed in terms of reorganisation and adaptation, accounting for maintaining the existence of functions, or the ability of the system to regain them. The proposed scheme and dimensions are tested using geomorphological data from barrier response to distinct disturbances, over different temporal scales that range from event to multi-decadal ones. The case of a barrier island migrating landwards is conceptualised in terms of alternative states and thresholds arising during the process and related phases and changes to the adaptive cycle. The methodology and approach presented is a step towards more holistic views of geomorphic systems’ resilience that we hope will contribute to furthering interdisciplinary understanding and cooperation in the area of sustainability and resilience of natural systems.
- Coastal barrier stratigraphy for Holocene high-resolution sea-level reconstructionPublication . Costas, Susana; Ferreira, Óscar; Plomaritis, Theocharis; Leorri, EduardoThe uncertainties surrounding present and future sea-level rise have revived the debate around sea-level changes through the deglaciation and mid-to late Holocene, from which arises a need for high-quality reconstructions of regional sea level. Here, we explore the stratigraphy of a sandy barrier to identify the best sea-level indicators and provide a new sea-level reconstruction for the central Portuguese coast over the past 6.5 ka. The selected indicators represent morphological features extracted from coastal barrier stratigraphy, beach berm and dune-beach contact. These features were mapped from high-resolution ground penetrating radar images of the subsurface and transformed into sea-level indicators through comparison with modern analogs and a chronology based on optically stimulated luminescence ages. Our reconstructions document a continuous but slow sea-level rise after 6.5 ka with an accumulated change in elevation of about 2 m. In the context of SW Europe, our results show good agreement with previous studies, including the Tagus isostatic model, with minor discrepancies that demand further improvement of regional models. This work reinforces the potential of barrier indicators to accurately reconstruct high-resolution mid-to late Holocene sea-level changes through simple approaches.
- CRAF Phase 1, a framework to identify coastal hotspots to storm impactsPublication . Ferreira, Óscar; Viavattene, Christophe; Jimenez, Jose; Bole, Annelies; Plomaritis, Theocharis; Costas, Susana; Smets, StevenLow-frequency high-impact storms can cause flood and erosion over large coastal areas, which in turn can lead to a significant risk to coastal occupation, producing devastation and immobilising cities and even countries. It is therefore paramount to evaluate risk along the coast at a regional scale through the identification of storm impact hotspots. The Coastal Risk Assessment Framework Phase 1 (CRAF1) is a screening process based on a coastal-index approach that assesses the potential exposure of every kilometre along the coast to previously identified hazards. CRAF1 integrates both hazard (e.g. overwash, erosion) and exposure indicators to create a final Coastal Index (CI). The application of CRAF1 at two contrasting case studies (Ria Formosa, Portugal and the Belgian coast), validated against existing information, demonstrates the utility and reliability of this framework on the identification of hotspots. CRAF1 represents a powerful and useful instrument for coastal managers and/or end-users to identify and rank potential hotspot areas in order to define priorities and support disaster reduction plans.
- Estimating the optimum size of a tidal array at a multi-inlet system considering environmental and performance constraintsPublication . González-Gorbeña Eisenmann, Eduardo; Pacheco, André; Plomaritis, Theocharis; Ferreira, Oscar; Sequeira, ClaudiaThis paper investigates the optimum tidal energy converter array density at a tidal inlet by applying surrogate-based optimisation. The SBO procedure comprises problem formulation, design of experiments, numerical simulations, surrogate model construction and constrained optimisation. This study presents an example for the Faro-Olhão Inlet in the Ria Formosa (Portugal), a potential site for tidal in-stream energy extraction. A 35 kW Evopod™ floating tidal energy converter from Oceanflow Energy Ltd. has been used for array size calculations considering two design variables: (1) number of array rows, and (2) number of tidal energy converter per row. Arrays up to 13 rows with 6–11 tidal energy converters each are studied to assess their impacts on array performance, inlets discharges and bathymetry changes. The analysis identified the positive/negative feedbacks between the two design variables in real case complex flow fields under variable bathymetry and channel morphology. The non-uniformity of tidal currents along the array region causes the variability of the resource in each row, as well as makes it difficult to predict the resultant array configuration interactions. Four different multi-objective optimisation models are formulated subject to a set of performance and environmental constraints. Results from the optimisation models imply that the largest array size that meets the environmental constraints is made of 5 rows with 6 tidal energy converter each and an overall capacity factor of 11.6% resulting in an energy production of 1.01 GWh year−1. On the other hand, a higher energy production (1.20 GWh year−1) is achieved by an optimum array configuration, made of 3 rows with 10 tidal energy converters per row, which maximises power output satisfying environmental and performance restrictions. This optimal configuration permits a good level of energy extraction while having a reduced effect on the hydrodynamic functioning of the multi-inlet system. These results prove the suitability and the potential wide use of the surrogate-based optimisation method to define array characteristics that enhance power production and at the same time respect the environmental surrounding conditions.
- Field measurements and hydrodynamic modelling to evaluate the importance of factors controlling overwashPublication . Matias, Ana; Carrasco, A.R.; Loureiro, Carlos; Masselink, Gerd; Andriolo, Umberto; McCall, Robert; Ferreira, Oscar; Plomaritis, Theocharis; Pacheco, André; Guerreiro, MarthaOverwash hydrodynamic datasets are mixed in quality and scope, being difficult to obtain due to fieldwork experimental limitations. Nevertheless, these measurements are crucial to develop reliable models to predict overwash. Aiming to overcome such limitations, this work presents accurate fieldwork data on overwash hydrodynamics, further exploring it to model overwash on a low-lying barrier island. Fieldwork was undertaken on Barreta Island (Portugal) in December 2013, during neap tides and under energetic conditions, with significant wave height reaching 2.6 m. During approximately 4 h, more than 120 shallow overwash events were measured with a video-camera, a pressure transducer and a current-meter. This high-frequency fieldwork dataset includes runup, overwash number, depth and velocity. Fieldwork data along with information from literature were used to implement XBeach model in non-hydrostatic mode (wave-resolving). The baseline model was tested for six verification cases; and the model was able to predict overwash in five. Based in performance metrics and the verification cases, it was considered that the Barreta baseline overwash model is a reliable tool for the prediction of overwash hydrodynamics. The baseline model was then forced to simulate overwash under different hydrodynamic conditions (waves and lagoon water level) and morpho-sedimentary settings (nearshore topography and beach grain-size), within the characteristic range of values for the study area. According to the results, the order of importance of factors controlling overwash predictability in the study area are: 1st) wave height (more than wave period) can promote overwash 3–4 times more intense than the one recorded during fieldwork; 2nd) nearshore bathymetry, particularly shallow submerged bars, can promote an average decrease of about 30% in overwash; 3rd) grain-size, finer sediment produced an 11% increase in overwash due to reduced infiltration; and 4th) lagoon water level, only negligible differences were evidenced by changes in the lagoon level. This implies that for model predictions to be reliable, accurate wave forecasts are necessary and topo-bathymetric configuration needs to be monitored frequently.
- Impacts of human interventions on the evolution of the Ria Formosa barrier island system (S. Portugal)Publication . Kombiadou, Katerina; Matias, Ana; Ferreira, Oscar; Carrasco, A. Rita; Costas, Susana; Plomaritis, TheocharisHuman interventions on sandy barriers disturb natural barrier dynamics, to the extent of having become key forces in modifying geomorphological evolution. This work identifies natural and human-induced drivers and analyses their importance to the multi-decadal evolution of the Ria Formosa barrier island system, in South Portugal. Aerial photographs from the last six decades and historical maps are used to assess changes in cross-shore rates, morphological characteristics (barrier and dune widths, inlet morphology and migration) and barrier areas, through systematic methods that can be easily transferred to other barrier systems. Interventions, and especially hard engineering ones (jetties, inlet stabilisations), affected barrier evolution trends. Shore-perpendicular works increased shoreline progradation updrift and initiated coastal retreat downdrift, with strongest erosive impacts along the edges of the system. Inlet stabilisations changed tidal inlet hydrodynamics and initiated ebb-shoal attachment to the barriers on either side of a non-migrating inlet that experienced loss of tidal prism. This shoal attachment was the main factor for the increase in total barrier area of Ria Formosa during the 60 years of analysis. Barrier growth after 2005 was slower, which could indicate that the system is reaching morphodynamic stability.
- Morphodynamics assessment by means of mesoforms and video-monitoring in a dissipative beachPublication . Montes, Juan; Simarro, Gonzalo; Benavente, Javier; Plomaritis, Theocharis; del Río, LauraIn this study a video-monitoring system was used to analyze the presence of mesoforms during a time period of five years in the urban beach of La Victoria, Cadiz, Spain. This technique allowed the generation of plan views using an improved version of ULISES software. The presence and spatiotemporal variability of the most common mesoforms, such as bars and cusps, was identified in all the plan views. Furthermore, the morphodynamic state of the beach was investigated in combination with local hydrodynamic data. The cusp systems were also studied by means of wavelet analyses and different theories on cusps formation were tested. The presence of the investigated features was related to the wave energy and its seasonal variations. The behavior of the mesoforms demonstrated the important role of a subtidal rocky outcrop in the nearshore processes. The results also show that bars and cusps as indicators of the nearshore processes are a useful tool for the macroscopic analysis of surf zone dynamics in dissipative beaches.
- Surrogate-based optimization of tidal turbine arrays: a case study for the Faro-Olhão inletPublication . G-Gorbeña, Eduardo; Pacheco, André; Plomaritis, Theocharis; Ferreira, Oscar; Sequeira, Claudia; Moura, TheoThis paper presents a study for estimating the size of a tidal turbine array for the Faro-Olhão Inlet (Potugal) using a surrogate optimization approach. The method compromises problem formulation, hydro-morphodynamic modelling, surrogate construction and validation, and constraint optimization. A total of 26 surrogates were built using linear RBFs as a function of two design variables: number of rows in the array and Tidal Energy Converters (TECs) per row. Surrogates describe array performance and environmental effects associated with hydrodynamic and morphological aspects of the multi inlet lagoon. After validation, surrogate models were used to formulate a constraint optimization model. Results evidence that the largest array size that satisfies performance and environmental constraints is made of 3 rows and 10 TECs per row.
- Use of a Bayesian Network for coastal hazards, impact and disaster risk reduction assessment at a coastal barrier (Ria Formosa, Portugal)Publication . Plomaritis, Theocharis; Costas, Susana; Ferreira, ÓscarCoastal communities are threatened by the impact of severe storms that may cause significant loss or damage of property and life. The main processes causing such impacts at sandy coastlines and nearby coastal communities are storm erosion, overwash and inundation. Coastal response under present conditions and under predicted climate change has been frequently assessed on the basis of numerical models, which in turn can be also used to evaluate the effectiveness of Disaster Risk Reduction (DRR) measures to mitigate the response of the coast to the imposed conditions. However, detailed morphodynamic models are computationally expensive and not commonly used by coastal managers. The present work proposes the construction of a probabilistic Bayesian Network (BN) as a surrogate for the numerical simulations. This BN is trained with a large number of morphodynamic simulations, under a variety of storm conditions and DRR measures, in order to serve as a front-end platform for visualising, analysing and evaluating combined results of the numerical modelling. The BN introduced in an early warning system will be able to serve both, as a predictive and as a working tool to determine impacts and evaluate risk reduction after measures implementation. Here, an example of the implementation and results of such a BN system is presented. The BN system was built for a coastal sector of the Ria Formosa barrier island system (South Portugal) to inform the degree of impact derived from overwash and erosion over the study area. The BN boundary conditions include variable wave height, water level, and wave period. The impact on receptors, including houses and infrastructure, was assessed. In addition, this tool can inform about the effectiveness of a particular DRR measure. The evaluated DRR measures were two primary measures (partial house removal and beach replenishment) and a non-primary measure (improve channels of communication), all measures proposed by local stakeholders. Results show that for a storm with wave characteristics of the 1 in 50 year return period and spring tide conditions, the house removal DRR reduces the overwash impact by 15% and erosion impact by 58%. The implementation of beach replenishment could reduce the erosion impact of the same event by 96% while it would have a smaller effect on the overwash impact (16%). The implementation of non-primary measures would have a much smaller effect on risk reduction. The combined effect of the above DRR measures (mainly house removal and beach nourishment) reduces storm impacts at the study area to a value near zero. The BN surrogates the model simulated onshore hazards and translates them into impacts for the current conditions, which give a high degree of confidence in the potential application of the BN as a management tool.
- Variability in storm climate along the Gulf of Cadiz: the role of large scale atmospheric forcing and implications to coastal hazardsPublication . Plomaritis, Theocharis; Benavente, Javier; Laiz, Irene; Del Río, LauraIn the context of increased coastal hazards due to variability in storminess patterns, the danger of coastal damages and/or morphological changes is related to the sum of sea level conditions, storm surge, maximum wave height and run up values. In order to better understand the physical processes that cause the variability of the above parameters a 44 years reanalysis record (HIPOCAS) was used. The HIPOCAS time-series was validated with real wave and sea-level data using linear and vector correlation methods. In the present work changes in the magnitude, duration, frequency and approach direction of the Atlantic storms over the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Iberian Peninsula) were identified by computing various storm characteristics such as maximum wave height, total energy per storm wave direction and storm duration. The obtained time-series were compared with large-scale atmospheric indices such as the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and the East Atlantic pattern. The results show a good correlation between negative NAO values and increased storminess over the entire Gulf of Cadiz. Furthermore, negative NAO values were correlated with high residual sea level values. Finally, a joint probability analysis of storm and sea level analysis resulted in increased probabilities of the two events happening at the same time indicating higher vulnerability of the coast and increased coastal risks. The above results were compared with coastal inundation events that took place over the last winter seasons in the province of Cadiz.